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Sole Wax

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Sole Wax

#1

Sole Wax

Ryan Stagg -- Cincinnati

>Hmmm... reading my subject I'm thinking 'Soul Wax' would be good company name -- or 70s film title?

I was watching Cosman's new 'Rough to Ready' video the other day and noticed he was using a wax stick to lube the soles of his planes. It sounded like it was hard, there was an audible 'rap' each time he contacted the sole. What kind of wax stick was it? I've always used an oil wick, but it looked convincing enough to try.

The video, btw, is available in the US from L-N, even though it's not on the website yet (as of last week). It's very good -- those of you who feel they have some holes in their '6 sides square with handtools' knowledge (like me) would benefit greatly from it.

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#2

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Tim of San Leandro

>most common is parrafin wax...aka candles.

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#3

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Ryan Stagg -- Cincinnati

>Ah - that makes sense, Tim. For some reason my mind was stuck on the paste variety. Thanks!

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#4

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Jim DeLaney, Tustin, CA

>I use parafin 'canning wax.' The brand name that I use is Gulf Wax, and my local supermarket carries it.

For convenience (mine), I use an old Arrid stick deodorant dispenser - the kind that you turn the knob on the bottom to advance the deodorant up.

I clean it out thoroughly, then pour the melted wax into it and let it cool. This gives a nice, cappable dispenser for the wax that's just about the perfect width for waxing the sole of a #3 or a block plane. The cap keeps the wax stick nice and clean.

Jim D.


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#5

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William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>I tried your tip with beeswax, a few years ago, probably using a different brand of stick deodorant, but I couldn't make it work. There was too much friction between the hardened beeswax and the inside surface of the container, and when I tried to extend or retract the stick, the threads tore out of the wax. I still have a hunk of the wax, in the oval shape of the deodorant, and I use it every so often, but usually I just use old candle stubs.

What did I do wrong?

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#6

Jim in Burlington Ont.

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Jim in Burlington Ontario

>I am pretty sure it's candle/canning wax that you can buy in a slab from craft stores. It is very hard I have used his before. The only thing you have to avoid is some waxes have silicone in them.

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#7

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William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>You don't "have to" avoid silicone. There are work-arounds. Silicone is usually only a problem with lacquer finishes, in which it causes "fish-eye". Even this can be overcome with an additive to the lacquer called "fish-eye remover". If you are working in a garage shop or other multi-purpose shop, or are bringing polished furniture into your shop for repair, it is particularly difficult to remove all sources of silicone contaminants from the shop, anyway.

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#8

Very true.

Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>

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#9

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Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Hi William -

Your comment intrigues me as I've been thinking about working with lacquer. However, I'm clueless. Would you mind providing some examples of were your average woodworking shop might pick up some silicon contamination? Waxes? WD-40? I really have no idea.

Thanks and regards (as always) -

Dave

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#10

Probably an old candle (tealight candles work well

Andrewf in Australia

>

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#11

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Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>Lots of Auto related products have silicone in them. Some waxes and most "appearance" sprays are culprits. I would check the label on the WD 40 to see if there is some silicone there.

I caused apoplexy in the body shop when I carried a can of spray silicone lube into the paint room. Nearly started some fights;-)JR

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#12

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Jim DeLaney, Tustin, CA

>The Arrid containers I've used have a little plastic 'tray' in the bottom of them, and the threads for the adjuster ar in that tray.

Also, after the wax cures, try warming the outside of the container slightly to make the wax break loose from the sides. Once it's loose and moving, it'll stay that way.

I have three containers of paraffin, and one of pure yellow beeswax, and haven't had the problem you describe with any of them...

Jim D.


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#13

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DaveH

>Rob uses Paraffin Wax as shown on his Tool list for his Hand Tool Course

http://robcosman.ca/Tool_List.htm

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#14

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Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Thanks JR -

I guess, it'd pay to read the labels on the stuff in my shop once in a while. I've only recently been reading about fisheye (in some non-lacquer finishes, IIRC), and hadn't yet run across the problem with lacquer and silicon. Better safe than sorry.

Regards -

Dave

P.S. We need to dream up some pretext to get some of us in the Wash DC area together again.

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#15

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Joe Rogers, Northern Virginia

>I agree about the get together. BTW I read an article in Pop woodworking about fish eyes in finishes. Seems most furniture polishes have silicone too. Keep reading the lables...JR

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