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Cleaning Planes *LINK*

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Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#1

Cleaning Planes *LINK*

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Hi.

There has been recent discussion here about getting started with handplanes. I'm sure this subject has been dealt with in the archives, but I'd like to add my two cents. While I've improved my techniches, I still have room for further improvement and welcome all to join in and share on points where you have used other methods to good success.

Patience is key here. If I knew then what I know now, I would have saved myself much time and money. What is the right vintage? Everyone has their own personal preference. Any Bailey from type 2 to type 17 should make a good user (with the possible exception of types 3 and 5). What is good condition? Learn how to spot a plane that will "clean up to" good condition with little time and expense.

My first Stanley bench plane, a #6 of sweetheart vintage, was a rusty mess. It cost me $45 (overpaid:-(, and took me 8 hours to overclean and fettle, and it still wouldn't take a shaving. Discouraged, I put it on the shelf for a couple of months. After awhile I gave it another crack, and it's now a favorite user. These are the steps I take in cleaning: I completely dissasemble the plane and let all the parts soak in mineral spirits (except for the tote and knob) while I clean the body. I use fine steel wool, a brass bristle brush for tight spots, and Q-tips for threaded holes and corners. I don't go crazy on the sole, because I will lap it later. If there are any areas of heavy rust on the sole or sides, I scrape it (locally) with a razor blade, and LIGHTLY touch-up with 320 grit sandpaper lubricated with WD-40. I spray WD-40 in all the threaded holes, wipe down with a soft rag and move on to the screws. I clean all the threads with a wire brush, and if they are ragged at the head, I lightly sand off the ridges.

Next step is cleaning the frog. I use the steel wool, brass brush and Q-tips again, wipe down and install the depth adjustment knob, lever cap screw, and the throat adjustment screw and attach to the body. I repeat the same steps for the iron, cap iron, and lever cap, and then the knob and tote.

The main thing I'd like to stress is that I don't go crazy. I rub gently with steel wool. If I run into heavy rust or paint splatters, I scrape it off with a razor blade or dull chisel. I go back to steel wool, and then 320 grit sandpaper in isolated spots (rubbing gently). If you go lightly with the sandpaper, it wil still leave a nice patina. For the softer lever cap,

iron, and cap iron, I'll go up to 600 grit so I don't leave scratches.

This Stanley #4 type 11, was a rusty/dirty/greasy/paint splatterd mess, with a broken tote. It took me two hours to clean and fettle and cost me a total of $37. It still displays a wonderful patina and has become a favorite go to plane. Thanks for listening


Stanley #4 type 11

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#2

Jim in Burlington Ont.

Very nice

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#3

Re: Very nice

Jonathan Peck

>OK, I'll bite. What's *NM*??

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#4

No Message

Andy Lincoln in Dearborn ,MI

>

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#5

For other than collectors,

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>simple cleaning is fine. I'm a fan of SOS pads (not that brand, but that type of soap-filled steel wool pad - I believe SOS is the original, developed right here on the Left Coast), but the principle is similar. Remove the dirt, rust, and dead flies.

I also like to wax all the surfaces on which something will slide or turn. This makes for a very smooth tool in use.

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#6

Uhhh...dead flies?? (Oh)

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Thanks. I've been looking for a way to clean tools without using mineral spirits (obnoxious smelling chemical solvent that is best not to be used indoors if not properly ventilated). Do you wash the tool afterwards with (warm?) water, and then dry with a blowdryer or in the oven?? (the dishwasher's off limits, swmbo's just not that understanding of my tool habbit)

Have you tried scotchbrite pads?

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#7

Scotchbrite pads

Bob Hackett

>I use Scotchbrite(Well,Beartex,same thing made by Norton)insted of steel wool.

These pads seem to be more user friendly and are just the ticket on wood,like wood planes.I use turpentine as a solvent if needed and then follow up with beeswax.

WARNING-contains electron killing content!

I also find that Beartex/Scotchbrite cleans metal faster and with less damage than a wire wheel.(admit it,you`ve used one)You can get abrasive graded down to "microfine" and "ultrafine",whatever that is.The most agressive grits can be had in hook and loop to be put on a 5" grinder(7" and 9" too) and the pads can be cut to fit your palm sander,the pad itself becomes the loop for low speed and ROS sanders.

There is also something called a deburring wheel that is basicly a compressed form of scotchbrite.I have one on my benchgrinder and it works great for easing sharp edges,removing rust from tools,sharpening carving tools,etc.It`s about the same as the old Cratex rubber/abrasive wheels or a hard felt wheel.

There`s probably more than you ever wanted to know about surface prep abrasive products from an old metalhead.BTW-they do make inflateable drum sanders with all this stuff in abrasive sleeves for those non-flat surfaces too.And you thought WWers got all the neat toys!

Mainely,Bob

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#8

admit it,you`ve used one *LINK*

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>Guilty as charged. I found a rusty old schooldesk at a yardsale. The only damage was the $5 dent it put in my wallet. The gentleman's kid's outgrew it and it spent several years out in the garage. Cleaned up real nice, but it would have taken way more time than I wanted to spend on it if I hadn't tried the wire wheel and a wire brush. Here's a before picture


img

Clich here for after picture

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#9

After pic doesn`t load

Bob Hackett

>I look forward to seeing it too.

I admire a man who can plan ahead enough to take a before pic.I usually think about it round about the half way to restoration point.

MB

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#10

The server gets a little cranky sometimes

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>I checked the link and it is opening OK from my end.It was the first nice day of the year, and I had the camera out taking pictures of the kids on the front lawn, the desk just got in the way :)


img

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#11

Confession

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I know a lot of people say mean, nasty, ugly things about WD-40, but I spray it enthusiastically all over the castings and parts (and usually my bench and myself, which is why I put down newspapers when I start a project like this) when I'm done with the SOS pad, then wipe things down with a paper towel. I'm told that WD-40 absorbs moisture, so I see it as a way to capture the moisture and then wipe it off, and that any remaining will serve to help the plane move smoothly. I've never had any rust issues with this regimen.

By the way, the ratio is roughly one SOS pad per plane, and they are really beat up when I'm done, so I don't grab the one over the sink, and (see above) I DON'T clean my planes in the kitchen. I have learned a few survival skills in my 56 years.

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#12

The "WD" stands for...

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>..."Water Displacer". Doesn't absorb, but pushes it outta the way. You're using it for its intended purpose.

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#13

Re: Confession *LINK*

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>"By the way, the ratio is roughly one SOS pad per plane, and they are really beat up when I'm done, so I don't grab the one over the sink, and (see above) I DON'T clean my planes in the kitchen. I have learned a few survival skills in my 56 years."

I once grabbed one of swmbo's matching designer was cloths from the linen closet and thinking "swmbo sure has nice rags" used it to clean an old Spofford brace. I left the evidence sitting out and barely lived to tell about it. I got this advice from a wise old galoot "don't ever use anything inside the house, not even a paper towel" along with this link - I have heeded this advice and keep all my own separate cleaning supplies in my shop. Of course this works both ways, as all the beer in my shop refrigerator all MY beer.


Addiction

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#14

Re: NM

Don Thompson - South of Miami

>Jonathan,

If you do not type a message when posting a response, the forum software automatically inserts *NM* into the subject line. That way, the reader knows not to bother opening the message.

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#15

Re: Confession

Don Thompson - South of Miami

>So YOU are the guy! I have been reading references to that for a couple of years, it seems, on the Porch.

I had a similar problem - there is what I thought was a rag box in the utility room. So I grabbed what was on top, to wipe something or another. SWMBO chewed me out. That was a good dish towel. I pointed out that in the same location were old torn tee-shirts, etc. NO GOOD. I was supposed to know the difference.

This was not a winnable argument, not if I did not want HOE.

Re: Cleaning Planes *LINK*

#16

not THE guy" *LINK*

Jonathan Peck - N.Y.

>I'm not THE guy, but it was THE guy who gave me that advice. Tom's webpage had me in stitches.


Big ttouble

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