Cleaning Planes *LINK*
Jonathan Peck - N.Y.
>Hi.
There has been recent discussion here about getting started with handplanes. I'm sure this subject has been dealt with in the archives, but I'd like to add my two cents. While I've improved my techniches, I still have room for further improvement and welcome all to join in and share on points where you have used other methods to good success.
Patience is key here. If I knew then what I know now, I would have saved myself much time and money. What is the right vintage? Everyone has their own personal preference. Any Bailey from type 2 to type 17 should make a good user (with the possible exception of types 3 and 5). What is good condition? Learn how to spot a plane that will "clean up to" good condition with little time and expense.
My first Stanley bench plane, a #6 of sweetheart vintage, was a rusty mess. It cost me $45 (overpaid:-(, and took me 8 hours to overclean and fettle, and it still wouldn't take a shaving. Discouraged, I put it on the shelf for a couple of months. After awhile I gave it another crack, and it's now a favorite user. These are the steps I take in cleaning: I completely dissasemble the plane and let all the parts soak in mineral spirits (except for the tote and knob) while I clean the body. I use fine steel wool, a brass bristle brush for tight spots, and Q-tips for threaded holes and corners. I don't go crazy on the sole, because I will lap it later. If there are any areas of heavy rust on the sole or sides, I scrape it (locally) with a razor blade, and LIGHTLY touch-up with 320 grit sandpaper lubricated with WD-40. I spray WD-40 in all the threaded holes, wipe down with a soft rag and move on to the screws. I clean all the threads with a wire brush, and if they are ragged at the head, I lightly sand off the ridges.
Next step is cleaning the frog. I use the steel wool, brass brush and Q-tips again, wipe down and install the depth adjustment knob, lever cap screw, and the throat adjustment screw and attach to the body. I repeat the same steps for the iron, cap iron, and lever cap, and then the knob and tote.
The main thing I'd like to stress is that I don't go crazy. I rub gently with steel wool. If I run into heavy rust or paint splatters, I scrape it off with a razor blade or dull chisel. I go back to steel wool, and then 320 grit sandpaper in isolated spots (rubbing gently). If you go lightly with the sandpaper, it wil still leave a nice patina. For the softer lever cap,
iron, and cap iron, I'll go up to 600 grit so I don't leave scratches.
This Stanley #4 type 11, was a rusty/dirty/greasy/paint splatterd mess, with a broken tote. It took me two hours to clean and fettle and cost me a total of $37. It still displays a wonderful patina and has become a favorite go to plane. Thanks for listening
Stanley #4 type 11

