Infill plane

A very nice Infill plane

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>I might add. At what angle did you bed the blade? Looks very nice, is it comfy to hold?

Re: A very nice Infill plane

Svante Nilsson

>Thanks!

The angle is 52 degrees. The idea with an asymetrical rear handle was to get a better grip and balance. I have not worked with it long enough but it is more convenient than my Krenov-styled wooden planes.

Svante

Re: interesting

Dennis

>Well i like the looks of it, let us know how it works down the road.........could send it to me and i will test it for couple years and let you know.......roflmao........well done from what i see.

Dennis

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Re: Infill plane

Bob Hackett

>Looks interesting.Could we see some more pics?How about one of the sole w/adjustable mouth.

Mainely,Bob

Re: Infill plane

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Hi Svante,

Very crisp and clean, as all your designs are! I have one question--what is the blade's bevel angle? The reason I ask is that you mentioned you got some tearout on difficult wood. With 52 degree bedding, you could easily go to a 35 degree bevel (or secondary bevel) and still have plenty of clearance. The steeper bevel would cut down on vibration and flexing at the tip, which could be considerable on a thick blade.

But the main thing is--this is a plane to be proud of. Thanks for sharing,

Wiley

Re: Infill plane

CBT

>Nice work. Was this your first user built plane? Was this your own design? I hope to try this someday but is looks like quite a task to work with metal.

Curtis

Re: Infill plane

Steve knight

>looks like a well done job. but why ash in a infill? shame on you (G)

something must be a bit off to get tearout. well maybe I should ask what wood your planing? I never found a tight mouth super critical on my infills. I tested a few with really tight to .007 mouths on the same nasty wood and they both worked the same.

Re: Infill plane

Svante Nilsson

>Hi,

The front sole has two embedded screws. The sole is not glued to the wooden front knob or the steel sides but kept in place with the two brass nuts on the knob.

To adjust the mouth I lose the nuts. Put a feeler with the desired thickness between the mouth and blade and tighten the nuts.

Regards,

Svante

Fantastic

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Did you send the iron out to be heat treated or buy one? Looks fantastic.

Re: Fantastic

Svante Nilsson

>Hi,

I bought an Uddeholm steelbar (tradename is Rigor but it is equivalent to A2). Cut and and grind it before it was sent for cryo-hardening. After hardening I have only lapped the blades. I made ten blades in various sizes.

Regards,

Svante

Very nice!

Bob Hackett

>I always enjoy seeing something where someone has put alot of time and thought into it.While I like the copies of the old infills ,it`s just this type of outside the box thinking that really gets my attention.

Isn`t it great to have a tool that really fits your hand perfectly?Something that was built with the way you work in mind?You`ve really come up with something your grandkids will be proud of(you may have to make more than one to keep the peace).Let`s hope they have the same size hands as you.

IMHO,nothing says more about your commitment to the craft than making your own tools.This one speaks volumes.Keep us in mind when you finish your next.

Mainely,Bob