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A Small Forge

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A Small Forge

#1

A Small Forge

Todd Hughes

>Went to a 18th century event this past weekend and camped with some friends that do blacksmithing and both told me about this new little forge they made where they take a firebrick and drill a 1 in. hole down the center and then just put a common propane torch in one side. Say it is no trouble to get a small piece of steel orange with it in no time flat. My one friend uses it all the time he says to make and temper springs where he doesn't want to go to the trouble of starting up his coal forge. I havn't used one, and being to much of a traditionalist don't think I ever would but thought it might be a easy cheap way for others to heat up small pieces like marking knives or carving chisels....My friend had a real neat small take down portable forge that i had a hard time not buying at $90 but i kept repeating to myself "I don't need it, I don't need it, I don't need it"....thank god he sold it the first day i don't think i could have held out much longer!.....Todd

Re: A Small Forge

#2

Re: A Small Forge

Dan Donaldson

>Do you mean drill a hole through the length of the brick, point the torch in one end and put the part in the other? If this is the case, how would you recommend drilling the hole in the brick without breaking it? Sounds like it might be useful for us metalworking challenged types;-)

Re: A Small Forge

#3

Re: A Small Forge

Todd Hughes

>I didn't see one but i took it to be made with the hole down the center lentghways. One fellow bought his at a blacksmith show for $10 or so but my other friend said he made his using a ordinay spade bit in an electric drill. imagine best to drill in from both ends and meet in the center....Todd

Re: A Small Forge

#4

Much better than drilling in from both ends

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>and not meeting in the center.

My potter wife has quite a bit of firebrick for Raku kilns and the like, and some of it's quite soft. I wonder if she's counted it...?

Re: A Small Forge

#5

Re: Much better than drilling in from both ends *LINK*

Dennis

>Well did a little research and found this, now find the brick somewhere. Got to try this,looks like the perfect forge for cut nails.

Dennis

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Microforge

Re: A Small Forge

#6

Re: A Small Forge

William Duffield on the Cohansey

>Thanks for the valuable tip, Todd. I think that's just about my speed.

Re: A Small Forge

#7

Re: Much better than drilling in from both ends

Ernie Miller Topeka

>That sure as heck beats what I have been using. I wonder if map gas will work?

Re: A Small Forge

#8

Re: Another idea

Dale Stansbery

>for using a fuel oil furnace burning chamber liner. There's a product that is about the size of a 1 1/2 gallon bucket that comes wet and is used to reline burner boxes. The first firing dries it out and makes it fire brick hard (actually soft but rigid). it's about 3/4" thick, but you could form it to whatever shape and size you want, and double the thickness even. As I recall the last one I bought was under $40.

Re: A Small Forge

#9

Re: Another idea

Jay Hanks/ Columbus Ohio

>In doing a web search I think its called refractory cement

" A ready-mixed, high temperature silicate mortar for setting, coating, or resurfacing firebrick. Used extensively as the mortar between firebricks when building fireplace fireboxes. The ideal high-heat sealant for masonry-to-masonry joints under 1/4" thick. Buff color. Asbestos-free. Gallon. "

Re: A Small Forge

#10

Re: A Small Forge

Jack from Maine

>Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try that one. Woodstove is not very efficient and it's off for the season anyhow.

Suggestion for a source would be a stove supply store.---Jack

Re: A Small Forge

#11

Jim in Burlington Ont.

Re: A Small Forge

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>They will charge you thru the nose at woodstove places. Have a look for a boiler repair, incinerator repair places. Tell them how little you want and they will probably have a bunch laying around.

Re: A Small Forge

#12

Should work

Dennis

>I don't see why not, should be just hotter fire source, my guess is brick won't last as long but should work better. Will make some calls here tomorrow and see what i can find for a "light weight insulating brick"

Another slope to slide down i think, hehe

Dennis

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Re: A Small Forge

#14

Re: Nope

Dale Stansbery

>The stuff I'm talking about comes as a thick damp felt like material, very flexible, like a 1/2" thick white felt. It's all ready in a bucket or can shape that you place in the firebox, press into place and cut the access hole for the burner. I don't remember the name of it but a furnace dealer who repairs oil furnaces should know what it is. I haven't bought any for a few years so can't remember what it's called.

Re: A Small Forge

#15

Re: A Small Forge

Rick W.

>The one-brick forge is described in "Wayne Goddard's $50 Knife Shop", a very useful book if you'd like to try heat-treating steel.Lots of good info on tools and the heat-treating process.

When I made my one-brick forge, I got a soft firebrick and drilled the hole with a holesaw on an extension. I drilled it until it bottomed out, then carefully broke out the core, and continued.

There are a couple of knife-related bulletin boards that have knifemaking forums: Knife Forums(www.knifeforums.com) amd BladeForums(www.bladeforums.com) Both sites have had discussions of small,easy to build forges.

Hope this helps.Good luck with it!

Rick W.

Re: A Small Forge

#16

Re:just a guess

Dennis

>From my readings on this subject, sounds like Kaowool.......and then something named ITC-100,which if i understand,and about now i really don't know for sure, its a ceramic wool stabilizer which reflect the heat back. If one thinks woodworking is complex they need to get into the smithy,heat treating,casting stuff.

Dennis

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Re: A Small Forge

#17

Re: A Small Forge

Dennis

>Thanks for links Rick, and does the brick work?

Dennis

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Re: A Small Forge

#18

Both ends?

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>I looked at the picture and the gas torch is fitted into another hole about the middle of the brick. The picture only shows one end of the micro forge. Is it really drilled all the way through?

Re: A Small Forge

#19

Re: A Small Forge

Rick W.

>Dennis,

I haven't used it yet. Too busy woodworking!

Rick W.

Re: A Small Forge

#20

Re: A Small Forge - PIC *LINK*

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>Todd, I've used one of these for years to make all manner of punches, chasing & repousse tools, small chisels & gouges, and so on. Works okay with the propane air torch, better with the large Bernzomatic Venturi head, but better still is the Smith oxy/propane "Little Torch" with a melting/casting 'rosebud'.


Firebrick micro-forge

Re: A Small Forge

#21

Oops! Didn't see Dennis' link...

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>Took me forever to find that site again, too, heh.

Other nice on-the-cheap microforges can be made of cans lined with Kaowool and/or refractory such as dentist's and jeweler's casting investment. Or you can mix 50/50 Hydrocal (plaster of Paris) with colloidal silica (200 to 320 mesh) and mould whatever shape forge or micro-oven you want. Glass fiber can be added for strength. Any ceramic supply will have these for not much money.

Re: A Small Forge

#22

Hey David,

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Is your brick drilled all the way thru end to end?

How long does a brick last?

What type of raw materials to you use?

Todd O.

Re: A Small Forge

#23

Soft firebricks: long-winded answers

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>"Is your brick drilled all the way thru end to end?"

Yes. I have two 3/4" holes at the end; one near the top, one near the bottom. The front is the same as the pic. The torch port is slightly slanted to the rear. The bricks are soft enough to cut and shape with rasps and smooth with coarse sandpaper, btw. I have nice rounded edges which seem to help keep it from crumbling. I also have a small hole for the probe on my digital pyrometer.

"How long does a brick last?"

I don't know yet. I dropped my first one as the thick Kevlar furnace gloves added to my own clumsiness. (Too impatient to let the thing cool after a long session. Short sessions just get it warm.) My second brick has lasted about three years with fairly frequent use, and that's with oxy/propane as well as propane/air. The bricks in my electric kiln are the same type and have been through hell: enameling, casting glass (pate de verre), kiln soldering, mokume gane, etc., and are still completely fine (one normal hairline crack in one kiln brick that won't require repair or replacing for years). I use these bricks to improvise all manner of muffle furnaces, kilns, melting clusters, offhand forges, and they seem to just go on and on. I don't even think about wearing them out, unlike casting refractories that get baked to death from glass casting kiln schedules that can last a day or longer. My two-brick mokume gane kiln/furnace (after Steve Midgett's design) has had only intermittant use so I can't say much about its longevity. I also have a half brick that supports an inset 'trinket kiln' ceramic electric element topped by a 1/4" thick unglazed tile. I run this all out while fusing silver or gold jump rings (no solder) with an oxy/propane torch (the kiln keeps them closer to fusing temp). I have done this for 8 hours a day for weeks and that brick is fine.

"What type of raw materials to you use?"

The raw materials I work in a one-brick micro-forge (and furnaces of soft firebrick) are W1 cold drawn square drill rod, O1 flat and drill, cut and round concrete nails, mild steels (occasionally).

In the two-brick mokume gane kiln I've eutectically bound silver, copper, gold, shakudo, nickel, etc.

In stacked brick furnaces, I've melted fine silver (.999) and sterling (.925) in open crucibles.

In soft brick electric kilns I work pure copper, pure silver, high karat golds, Gaffer 45-percent lead crystal frit as well as Bullseye and Uroboros frit.

I melt 24K gold for alloying with pure silver and copper to make 'alluvial' 22K for fusing and granulation in compressed charcoal blocks only.

Re: A Small Forge

#24

Thanks David

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Looks like I might need to take a trip to Venice someday to check all these mico-forges out up close and personal eh.

Todd O.

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