Hand planing and finishing

Re: Hand planing and finishing

Christopher Schwarz

>I am a big fan of David's. I've met him in person and think he's an extraordinary teacher and craftsman. My review of his new sharpening video is nothing less than gushy.

But I haven't had this problem when I've done a good job on a panel. But I qualify this statement with the fact that I really want to read his article before saying I actually disagree.

I always finish with a film finish (shellac or lacquer), and I don't sand or scrape much (if at all) before finishing. I just finished a tansu chest with 15"-wide door panels. To my eye and fingertips, I can't tell that they aren't perfectly smooth, though I know they are scalloped across their widths.

The only place I have noticed this problem is when I'm working pieces for the inside of a case and I work "rougher."

I've a few weird ways of working, however, some of which I haven't discussed much here because I'd be outed as, well, kinda weird.

For example, after I smooth a panel, I set the smoother to the absolute lightest setting imaginable and make the final pass or two using very little pressure. Generally what I pull off is sub-thou gossamer, but the panel is then as smooth as a baby's behind.

It's probably just superstitious and unnecessary, but it's how I work and I like my results.

Now I have to go to the bookstore tomorrow and find the article. What issue is it in?

Chris

April's issue #87

Jim in Burlington Ontario

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Re: Hand planing and finishing

Tim

>IMO....it all depends on 2 things...how you sharpen your iron and your technique.

If you crown the iron a bit....you will get the scalloping. How deep the scallop depends on how much crown you put on the iron. Technique also has much to do with it.

If you hone your iron flat and put a small radius on the corners, you can virtually eliminate any plane marks by make the last few smoothing passes with the plane heavily skewed and taking as light a cut as you can....helps to hone the iron just prior to taking these finish cuts. The other important part in technique to obtain the smoothest surface (if that is what you're after) is to be very consistent with the amount of pressure you apply to front and back of plane...consistent pressure along the entire stroke (you've obviously got to compensate a bit at the start and finish of the stroke) as well as consistent pressure for each pass of the plane.