Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
What wood for a fence?
Jeremy Osner
>Hi All, I am currently contemplating building a fence (actually a gate). It is flat vertical boards nailed onto a wooden frame -- what wood would be best to use? I am thinking doug fir 2X4's for the frame, the verticals would ideally be some kind of durable softwoood measuring 3/4" X 6" X 5'. The fence will be painted. Can I use pine? I think most of the pine that is sold areound here is eastern white pine which I understand is not too durable.
Re: What wood for a fence?
Jeremy Osner
>Another note -- I just contacted a lumber supplier not too far away and he told me he has Southern Yellow Pine. Would this be a good choice?
Re: What wood for a fence?
Tom MacGregor, Vermont
>Whatever wood you end up using, I'd suggest a solid color oil (not latex) stain instead of paint. The higher the linseed oil content the better. It won't peel, dosen't trap moisture underneath & if it's time to recoat it you don't have to scrape first. I used to use it on problem walls & porches that wouldn't hold paint well. Olympic used to be the best (more oil, less paint thinner in it) don't know if they're still around. Stain your pieces before assembly as it's the areas of wood to wood contact that rot first. Look at the side of a 100 year old barn - almost any wood will last if it gets a chance to dry out fully between soakings.
Re: What wood for a fence?
Jeremy Osner
>Thanks Tom -- I looked around and Olympic does appear to be in business still.
Re: A question about stain
Jeremy Osner
>Hi Tom, will that oil stain protext the end grain of the boards alright?
Re: What wood for a fence?
Jack from Maine
>Hi Jeremy,
You can use white pine for the slats if you plan on keeping it stained.If you think the stain may end up neglected at some time I'd go for cedar. Even bare it will last alot longer.Southern yellow pine is also a good choice though not as good as cedar in my opinion.---Crackerjack
Re: What wood for a fence?
Dave Anderson Chester,NH
>I agree with Jack, Eastern white cedar is a really durable material for fencing. It holds both paint and stain well. If you remember the picket fence along my front walk, it's all white cedar and has held up well. Prime with oil based and top coat with latex, it works really well.
Re: What wood for a fence?
John Aniano in Central NJ
>Hi Jeremy,
One of the very best woods for standing up to the rigors of the rain and weather is black locust. Assuming you can find it! I just got eight 4"x4" posts from Riephoff's sawmill for a new "deer-proof" garden enclosure. The stuff might outlast our lifetimes...
John
Re: What wood for a fence?
Jeremy Osner
>Thanks Jack and Dave -- cedar sounds like the way to go. Also I think I can get it closer than the lumberyard that carries SYP.
Re: A question about stain
Tom MacGregor, Vermont
>It's the linseed oil in the stain that helps preserve the wood. Just keep going back and hitting the endgrain while it's still wet until it won't soak up any more. It's the opposite of the way you'd do it with paint. Be aware also that it can take up to a couple of days to get completely dry depending on sun, temperature & humidity.
Re: cedar minutiae
William R. Duffield on the Cohansey
>The term Eastern White Cedar could be a little confusing. In Maine, Northern White Cedar is locally available, but in Jeremy's neck of the woods, Atlantic White Cedar grows, but is not commonly available in most lumber yards. Either would work well for fencing in NJ, as would Eastern Red Cedar or Western Red Cedar.
For the posts, I would agree with John Aniano and choose Black Locust, but any of the aforementioned cedars would be a lot lighter and easier to work than the locust, and would work well for the aboveground structural and decorative pieces.
Cedar on the west coast
Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA
>I have no idea what species of cedar we get out here for fence boards, although it seems fairly durable, but a) it comes wet enough to bring to a rolling boil, b) the boards are thinner than standard nominal 1", and c) as a result of these two factors, building a good fence requires rails every 3' or so. Tall fences require three rails. Otherwise, you get boards warping in opposing directions and a rough-looking fence.
Perhaps someone there on the Other Coast can tell Jeremy whether or not this is a concern with the eastern species.
Cedar on the east coast
Jack from Maine
>All the local cedar I've dealt with has been well dried. We get alot of stockade style fences around here. They're made with thin vertical slats of untreated white cedar held to three horizontal 2x3's with staples and they don't twist or warp.---Jack
same here in the middle...
Tony - Memphis
>Every fence in the hood is rough cedar just like you described. Our fence is only 6', but there are three rails. All the pt rails are pine and warped all to heck. I buy some fence boards once in a while and store them in the shop to dry for a few months. I run them through the planer and use the wood for bird houses and such. It smells really nice and is actually kind of nice to look at fresh planed. Takes and holds paint very well. I have a church bird house in the back yard that has some syp and the cedar...the paint has started acting up on the syp, but the painted cedar looks as good as brand new. Gotta watch the knots in the planer..I cut around them before planing.
Tony
Re: Cedar on the west coast
Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL
>Oddly enough, what is commonly found down here is Western Red Cedar. It comes very rough, but not particularly wet.
Re: What wood for a fence?
Dirk Wright
>Use pressure treated pine and apply a solid stain or good paint. It will outlast you that way. Wait for the wood to dry before finishing it. You can get "appearance grade" in 1x6 for the slats and use decent 2x4's for the gate. You won't get poisoned as long as it stays finished. I used some top grade 100% acrylic latex paint on a PT split rail fence that's held up nicely so far. hope this helps.