Veritas Grinder Tool Rest Secrets?

Re: Veritas Grinder Tool Rest Secrets?

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>I have that black plastic multi-angle setting aid that LV sells for setting the tool rest, but I found it easier to grind the ends of 1/4" plexi strips, about 3/4" wide and 4" long - like thick 3/4" chisels - until I got the angles I prefer for parers and plane irons, and so on, then use these as setting templates. These are easier to use as they exactly fit the circumference of my wheel. The thicker plexi allows me to feel when everything's right rather than having to see.

I guess I should add...

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>...the easy way to use these plexi templates: first, loosen both handles on the Veritas tool rest; enough so it can move but not sloppy loose. Hold the plexi strip fast to it (as you would a chisel freehand), then move it against the wheel until the end of the strip fits the wheel where you want it (above the centerline, of course). You can feel it sorta 'snap' into place. Tighten. Voila!

And finally... (I promise)...

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>(should've had another cup of coffee, I think)...

With a Sharpie, draw a line extending the angle of your tool rest onto the side of the wheel and label it with either the degrees or the type tool you grind with this angle. Works for me, anyway.

Neat tool--must have

jim_reed@marietta

>I have used the cr*p out of mine and love it. It gets hot after a few hours, but it has held up to months of production work. I use a wooden template and test stock. Grind some soft steel and check it to the template. Quick and works great for me. Good luck with yours.

Very interesting, David. Thanks

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Hi David -

Thanks for the suggestion on the plexiglass and for the technique tips. This is a very interesting idea. Essentially you've made a angle guage for all your major grinding angles. I like it.

Regards -

Dave

P.S. I've been admiring your shop pics (and the anvil discussion) along with everyone else. Very nice!

Re: Neat tool--must have

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Hi Jim -

Thanks for the encouraging words. I haven't had a chance to use if for a couple hours - so haven't had the heat issue.

Also I'm still learning about steel. I have some 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide steel bars left over from when hurricane Isabel did a number on our cyclone fencing (as well as other things). Would you care to guess whether this might be a soft steel or not. If so I might be able to use it. Otherwise I'll need to be scrounging around.

Thanks for the post. And, you're right, this tool rest and grinder jig is saving me quite a bit of time (and wear/expense on my waterstones).

Regards -

Dave

A guess about steel

jim_reed@marietta

>I guess your fence steel is casehardened and zinc coated. Pretty worthless except for fencing. I would not grind it because of the zinc. Try MSC or ENCO and get some O-1 flat stock. It is high quality and easy to heat treat. If you are going to do much grinding be sure to get a respirator. They have some at HD for less than $30. Add a pair of ear muffs & safety glasses & apron. Grinding is dangerous, but safety devices can mitigate much of the risk.

Thanks, Jim. I'll nix that idea.

Dave (Arlington, VA)

>Jim -

Thanks for the fence "steel" insights. That idea is now out the window. I appreciate it.

On safty stuff: I don't have goggles (though I do wear glasses with plastic lenses; I haven't worn ear protection though I do have it (and probably should wear it); and I don't have a apron. I doubt I do enough grinding to require a respirator. Thanks for the reminder. I had thought about goggles, but not an apron or ear protection.

On the MSC O-2 suggestion. Sounds like a good idea.

Again, thanks, and regards -

Dave