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1st try at face planing - questions

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1st try at face planing - questions

4/19/04, 10:44 PM #1

Kerry in FortSask
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1st try at face planing - questions

Kerry in FortSask

>I'm new to this neander biz, but just refurbished an old Record #4 1/2 that I picked up for cheap using electrolysis, flattened, sharpened and honed the blade to 4000 grit using a combination of sandpapers and waterstones. The sole was flat (checked with a metal straightedge) so I didn't touch it other than scrubbing it clean with a scotch-brite pad after electrolysis. I put the plane back together and got out a piece of rough cut cherry, about 8" x 24", and proceeded to try my first attempt at face planing a board. I've always realized that this was (and still is) done all the time, but it's pretty amazing actually doing it. I mean, I can actually get a rough piece of wood pretty dang flat. Amazing.

I do have a question though: shortly before I sharpened this blade, I had flattened my waterstones so to my eyes, the edge of the blade was very square, no 'crowning' (is that the right word??), at least none that I could discern. When I was planing, I had a heck of a time not leaving a small gouge that I believe came from the side of the blade. I adjusted the lever a bit and it helped, but I found it very hard to avoid this little gouge. I know this is a dumb question, but is that what this lever is for? I mean, adjusting imperfections in the alignment of the blade? If so, do you have to adjust it from time to time in the planing process as the blade alignment changes? Should the blade remain rock solid or do they all move side to side a little if they hit a knot or at least a particularly dense part of a board? Newbie questions I realize, but I haven't yet found anyone local to show me the ropes.

All in all, it was a satisfying experience, but I'm going to have to wear a headband next time to stop the sweat dripping onto the wood, or worse - the plane (man, I gotta get some exercise) :-)

Kerry

Re: 1st try at face planing - questions

4/19/04, 11:21 PM #2

Andrew F
Guest

Re: 1st try at face planing - questions

Andrew F in Australia

>Hi Kerry,

Your question was:

If so, do you have to adjust it from time to time in the planing process as the blade alignment changes? Should the blade remain rock solid or do they all move side to side a little if they hit a knot or at least a particularly dense part of a board? Newbie questions I realize, but I haven't yet found anyone local to show me the ropes.

The lateral adjustment lever is used exactly as you stated - to get the blade parallel to the sole of the plane.

The blade should be tight enough so it doesn't move with hand pressure pushing on the side of the blade. Sounds as though you're almost there - loosen off the lever cap, turn the hold-down screw (lever cap screw) about a quarter turn and reassemble the plane. Blade should stay where it's put then.

Often, the corners of the plane blade were 'dubbled' over (1/16" or so radius at the corner of the iron), so instead of a sharp corner digging in, you got a rounded shoulder to the surface. Either way, you won't notice them

I was trained to have a jointer plane ground square - you'll hear a lot of talk about honing the whole blade at a slight radius - ie: the centre of the blade is approx 1/16" deeper than the corners. In this way, the blade scoops out a slight dish-shaped profile. If you're edge jointing and you're off-square, then by moving the plane to one side, you can preferentially remove wood from one side of the board edge and bring the board back to square again.

Cheers,

Andrew