veritas "invisible nailing kit"

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

Alan Hamilton

>Mark,

I have one, and I've never been able to get it to work very well. The last couple times I tried it I couldn't get it to work at all. I like the idea though; so now I do the same thing with an in-canel gouge, which works perfectly.

Alan

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

GolfSteve in Calgary

>It works OK in pine. I never had any success with it in hardwood.

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>It's a great idea, but I had immense difficulty using it. Not my greatest purchase.

I think that the in-cannel gouge sounds like a better idea.

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

markk

>Thanks folks, you saved me some time and money.

However, having exactly zero experience with gouges, was wondering why an in-cannel gouge would work better than a chisel to scoop up a little "flap" of wood.

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

Ernie Miller Topeka

>Not having ever done it here is my scoop on it the incannel gouge is sharpened on the inside of the blade making it easier to controll the shallow cut. and the use of a gouge over a chisel is that it is rounded to cut into the wood without tearing the grain on the edges of your cut.

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

Rob Lee

>Mark -

This is a reproduction of an old Stanley tool - our contribution/patent is for the grind on the tip of the chisel - to make it perform as a gouge. If the chisel grind is not properly maintained, or if the cut depth is too great, it won't work well.

Think of an ice cream scoop - that's how you want to cut the wood - an entry cut, with side cuts.

Once you learn how to use it - it works well, but only against the grain, and in woods like cherry and pine. I tap it with a block of wood (or a dowel) to drive it....

An out-cannel gouge works well too - as long as you have good control over your depth of cut...

Cheers -

Rob

Re: veritas "invisible nailing kit"

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>Rob,

I have kind of forgotten the exact nature of the problems I was having now. It's been at least one year since I used it.

I kind of got it to work but there was a bit of fussing in the setup.

It may work better in North American timbers than our timbers. I used it on Tasmanian Oak (E. Regnans to be specific) and the chip had a tendency to either snap off or not want to stick back down! The snap off would happen if the chip was even slightly wedged between the mouth opening and the chisel/iron.

Oh, that reminds me! The mouth was too small for the task and I had to open it up a bit.

On the other hand, maybe it was a case of "carbon based failure" on my part. I haven't had a reason to try it out again so I might get it out this afternoon and have another look.

Mark