Half Blind trick

Re: Half Blind trick

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>Works, but I was taught to NOT use a sharpened and beveled edge to avoid splitting.

Re: Yep

Tom Scott

>Sure, this works good. I've always used an old scraper blade, but as noted previously, it should be dull to avoid splitting.

Be careful on the outside 1/2 pins, and take it slow when using this method on them. I've also found that you should start at the inside pins and then do the outside ones last. This gives a little more relief to your 1/2 pins and reduces the chance of them splitting.

Tom

Blunt edge?

Robin Frierson

>So you just use a blunt edge, like the normal end of a scraper blade thats square? Dont sharpen it at all? That blunt piece goes in OK?

Re: Blunt edge?

David Barnett - Venice, FL

>You can file it flat just like you're prepping it for burnishing, but don't turn a burr. If you're finicky, you can also cut a few very small 'rip' teeth from the corner for about 3/8", (on one of the ends, short dimension) so they cut when pulled toward you. No set. Works like a float to deepen and/or clean out the kerf left by the scraper.

Re: Yep

Fred in Virginia

>To reduce the risk of splitting on the outside pins use a clamp across the end to resist the splitting force.

Don't bother

Adam Cherubini, NJ

>Robin,

What you are doing is perfectly acceptable. I doubt you'd split your drawer front.

But I don't bother. Any examination of period furniture reveals overcuts on the drawer backs. In the past, some woodworkers have assumed these reduce the amount to be chiseled. Others have offered the technique you describe as an inevitable alternative.

I've found it a simple matter to dig the DT saw's heel into this cut, cutting very close to or on the depth. I believe this is yet another explanation for the peculiar handle found on tradition dovetail saws, dutifully and beautifully reproduced on Adria, and LN saws.

Happy dovetailing whatever method or saw you choose!

Adam

Re: Blunt edge?

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>I actually blunt mine even further than just filing.

I don't know why more folks don't use this technique on half-blind DT's.

Best, Ted

Re: Half Blind trick-putty knife

ThomD

>I do that, but I use narrow putty/taping knife. Just use it as it comes from the store, it has the advantage of rather than there being this piece of metal you are walloping with a hammer, it's pretty much set up like a chisel, Just drive it down. These knives come in a bunch of thicknesses, some a thick as a dime, others very flexy. I look for as thin as possible, with a little stiffness. I clamp the board to minimize any chance of spliting. It doesn't wreck the knife, I still use it for plaster.

Funny. I have know this trick for about 25 years. Yet until I saw the video I really didn't think it would work. Frid has a different approach to joinery from what I learned, and I always had a feeling like it might all work in mahogany and walnut, but forget it for the other stuff. But I worked throught he whole deal a few years ago just for something to do. The saw think and all that. It sure does work.