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Hand REsawing

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Hand REsawing

#1

Hand REsawing

Nick at Abilene, Texas

>OK folks who know how to do this.

Say that I've got a log 30" long. I want to make some boards from it. Do I slice off a side, or slice it down the middle first?

Then could I use a 9 point rip saw, or should I get an old saw with really big teeth?

Ive seen the resaw articles with bandsaws and table saws, but no handsaws.

Any sage advice? I'm just curious, and laying this up for future use.

Thanks you guys, Nick

Re: Hand REsawing

#2

Re: Hand REsawing

Tim

>you need to first determine if you want QS, RS or PS boards.

Re: Hand REsawing

#3

Re: Hand REsawing

Bob Nelson

>Tim says he's starting with a log. Is it really "re"sawing if you aren't starting with something that had already been sawn before? Bob

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#4

Re: Hand REsawing

Jeremy Osner

>If memory serves, John Aniano had a long post with pictures a while back about doing this. May have been back in the Badger Pond time.

Re: Hand REsawing

#5

Re: Hand REsawing

George Makowski

>Nick, Its not organic, but for larger logs I use my chain saw and a Haddon lumber maker attachment. The problems for a smaller log are holding it in place and the width of the chainsaw kerf. If you are careful, you can snap a line on the log and run down it with a chain saw.

Most older milling first produced thick, 2" or thicker, pieces called deals which, for cabinet and furniture work, were later resawn in the shop or at a resawing mill. You might try this if you use a chain saw. Reduce the log to deals and then resaw them into the pieces you want using a hand saw with a narrower kerf.

There have been postings about using large frame saws for resawing and they would probably work to mill a log in the first place.

As advised above, you must first decide what grain pattern you want in the boards you will cut.

Good cutting!

George in AL

Re: Hand REsawing

#6

Re: Hand REsawing

Adam DeGraff

>Finally, something I actually have some experience with!

First of all, what kind of wood is it. And what is the diameter? If it is really straight grained, I have had luck splitting out "boards" and then just treating them like really rough lumber. I used wedges and a froe.

Second, like another response to your post said, you need to determine weather you want quarter sawn, flat sawn, or some sort of combination. I have also used a 5tpi rip saw. You do have to find a way to hold the long, but with such a short log, you could just stand it on end and "tie" it to your bench still allowing yourself access from the side. You would have to move your rope a couple of times. Of course the way this was done before power tools was with a pit saw. But your log would be way too short for this.

Having presented all of those "by hand" ideas, here is exactly what I would do. Call up the Woodmizer company and ask them for a list of people in your are that own one of their mills. Take the log to him/her and have them cut it for you. It will take them less than 5 minutes to do a bang up job.

Hope that helps.

Re: Hand REsawing

#7

Re: Hand REsawing

Tim

>yup.

he is not "re" sawing.

Re: Hand REsawing

#8

Re: Hand REsawing

Ernie Miller Topeka

>If you want flat saawn you can start at the side and work you way over. What I would do is go over to the power tool side and post a HELP for some one in Abilene with a band saw to cut it up for you. Nander buddies can be you friend. other wise grab you rip saw with the biggest teeth and have at it. Them big saws you see at flea markets with big teeth are for cross cutting won't do you much good. if you want to make a frame saw to cut it I have some band saw blades that is 1 TPI and I'll send you 3' or so if you want to use it. What you are proposing just sounds like to much work to me though. for quarter sawn I think you cut it in quarters down the center and then cut off one side of the quarter log and then the other to maxumize the width of your boards. I may be wrong but if I am some one will set us both straight.

Re: Hand REsawing

#9

Re: Hand REsawing

Alan Hamilton

>Nick,

In one--or several--of his Woodwright's Shop books (I can't remember which right now) Saint Roy of Underhill describes this process in detail.

Alan

Re: Hand REsawing

#10

It Depends

Jorge Castañeda~East Penobscot Bay

>Nick,

I did not read the other posts, you did not mention what kind of wood you want to rip, that 9 points maybe be good for a very hard wood, in general you will be better off with a 5 1/2. in pine you can go all the way to a 3 point.

Have fun!

Jorge

Re: Hand REsawing

#11

Re: Hand REsawing

Nick at Abilene, Texas

>You guys brought up some interesting thots. It would probably be Mesquite, there is plenty of it here. I forgot that the big two handed type saw at the flea market would be a cross cut. So that left that out.

I was just wondering how I would secure it and where to start. That was answered with tying it to the bench.

I wanted it all Neander. But I think someone had a good idea.....too much work. There is a sawyer in the area, I'll let him do the work.

I had not thot of Flat sawn, Quarter Sawn, etc.

I was more interested in the tools used.

Thanks guys, you are great.........Have a wonderful day.......Nick

Re: Hand REsawing

#12

Re: Hand REsawing

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>But I think someone had a good idea.....too much work.

What a bunch of hooey! that's the worse idea that I have ever heard stated on this forum. Neander= Work.

Nick, I dunno what saw you should use, an aggressive rip to be sure tho. Start with what you've got on hand see how it goes, and let us know how it went. 30" inches isn't nothing compared to what used to be done in Days of Yore. To much work. Indeed!

Todd O.

Re: Hand REsawing

#13

Re: Hand REsawing

Nick at Abilene, Texas

>I repent, it is not too much work. it is fun! It is a challenge. I love it! I dont get turned off by hard work.

Thanks for the encouragement........Nick

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