Marking knife pixs (really)

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Todd Hughes

>Is there some reason that the ends are turned so that they are pointy? Looks like it would really limit how you could hold the knife with out having that sharp finale jabbing you ......Todd

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Philip Albany, NY

>Those look great Dave. Did you turn brass nuts from plumbing work? I love those things. I think they look and work better than ferrels and they're probably less expensive than using brass pipe.

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

dave jeske

>Very nice Dave! What are you using for your blades. I am currently using O-1 which seems to work great for edge holding. I may step up to A2 just to try it out and see if it makes any difference. I cannot H.T. A2 however. I turned a set of marking knives using Tulipwood and I really like the results.

dave

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

paul womack

>Is there some reason that the ends are turned so that they are pointy? Looks like it would really limit how you could hold the knife with out having that sharp finale jabbing you

Modern lily livered talk!

The old style marking knives (aka striking knives) had a scribing point at one end, and knife edge at the other (scaled handles optional).

BugBear

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Todd Hughes

>well I can certainly see the rational behind a dual purpose knife made like that but somthing sort of tells me these sharp wooden finales are not made to be used in scribing...eh?...Todd

Dave they must be ...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>Magic marking knifes. 'Cause they appear then disappear and just like magic they've appeared again!

Very nice looking knifes.

Just received one

Wiley Horne--Glendora CA

>Hi All,

I just opened the mail, and there was a snakewood knife from Dave! It is finely made and finished. The ferrule is stout and perfectly fit. The knife has a good feel in the hand. The blade is 3/32" thick, and it arrived sharp and the back flat.

Here's something about the tip, or finial. This tip is not delicate. In the picture, the photo flash creates a shadow underneath the finial, making it appear to come to a point. On my knife, that tip narrows to about 1/16" and then is radiused. It looks just right as an old-tyme design feature, and it is stout.

Wiley

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Dave Anderson Chester, NH

>Hi Todd- The finial on the end is just for decoration though I've made a few without it. Because of the way marking knives are held there isn't much chance of sticking yourself with one. On the other hand if it rolls off the bench onto a concrete floor, the tip of the finial can get broken off. DAMHIKT

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Dave Anderson Chester, NH

>No Phil, I just buy the ones from Lee Valley that I need. Ferrules don't need to be thick to provide strength and the extra cost and effort to machine and polish compression fittings isn't realy necessary.

Thanks Dave

Dave Anderson Chester, NH

>I too use O1 since it holds an edge well, is easy to heat treat, and is easy to work before HT. I've thought of using A2, but I'd need to make large batches to send out for heat treating in order to have it be economical. Alternately I'd have to invest in one of those computerized electric heat treat ovens and any decent one starts above $1000 and they go up from there.

Re: Just received one

Dave Anderson Chester, NH

>Thanks for the vote of confidence Wiley. I'm glad you received the knife so quickly and I hope you enjoy it. Having received and bought many tools over the years that were in reality kits, I decided I'd anything I made and sold would ship ready to use out of the package. The fussier folks might want to hone the edge a little. I only finish edges to 1000 grit SiC paper and the backs to 600 grit.

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Peter Ulmanis

>Dave,

They are beautiful! Make sure you bring at least one of the Tulipwood with you to Wood days in Canterbury. I think I can make one disappear, although the other two are almost as nice in the picture.

Decisions, decisions.

Either way, they are all lovely.

Peter

Re: Marking knife pixs (really)

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Very very very nice marking knives Dave. I'm trusting that the handles are one piece and not split turned and glued back together right?

What type of finish did you use?

Todd O.

Some answers Todd

Dave Anderson Chester,NH

>Thanks for the kudos. The handles are bored out for the blade shank and turned in one piece. the finish is 2 coats of pure Tung Oil followed by a buffed carnuba wax topcoat. I know the tung takes longer to cure, but it doesn't darken the wood like BLO or Danish Oil would. I used to use blonde shellac as the finish but eventually the salts and oils in the hand eats at the shellac and dulls it. This finish is longer lasting and also provides a closer to the wood look.