fastening glass in a cabinet

Re: fastening glass in a cabinet

janderr

>i have used a wood glazing with a rabbit to receive the glass pinning the glazing to the frame with either brass brads or brass #4 screws. i truly doubt putty would have been used, but i could wke my wife, the antiques expert, to find out for sure.

Re: fastening glass in a cabinet

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>I have a few older cabinets and don't see any putty. The glass rattling in older furniture is pretty much part of the charm. As for bending the cherry you might have to cut a couple of thin pieces and steam them. If you staining the piece use something like red oak that bends easier.

Re: fastening glass in a cabinet

Tim

>rabbet the frame and then tack some small strips of wood on the back side of the glass...use pin nails...23 gauge for an air nailer or hand drive brass pins for a more elegant touch. Do not glue the backer strip...you'll want to be able to pry it off if the glass needs replacing.

to help with the rattling....layout some wax paper....make some small but long beads of silicone caulking. let dry. cut into lengths you need and put between the glass and backer board before pinning.

hth

Tim

Glazing beads *LINK*

Andrew F in Australia

>Jack,

Traditional way is to cut a rebate (approx 10mm high by 6mm into the edge - or 3/8 x 1/4 rabbet in the US money) and then put in your (3mm or 1/8") glass, and tack a strip of wood 6mm x 7mm (approx 1/4" by 5/16") cross section behind the pane of glass. This strip of wood is called a glazing bead.

Round beads are cut from a board to fit the circular rebate.

The bead is tacked into the rebate, not glued, as you will need to eventually change a pane of glass when broken. The bead should finish close to flush with the back of the door frame.

The above is the same reason why you don't use a groove (dado???) to do this. How do you replace the glass in a frame when all four edges are located in a groove.

Hope that this helps and cheers,

Andrew


Examples of high end glass beading on windows

Re: fastening glass in a cabinet

Greg B�tit, Vergennes, VT

>It looks like they steam bent the strip holding the 14" diameter glass on my German made grandfather clock. It is roughly 1/4" square and one strip holds the glass in.

If I had to replace this I would try ripping a strip of ash or red oak (or similar bend-friendly wood), drilling holes for the brads, and then steaming it and tacking it in place while hot.

Greg

Re: fastening glass in a cabinet

Alan Hamilton

>Jack,

Could you...um...errr...cheat? That is to say, perhaps you could use a square piece of glass behind a square door that has a round cut-out.

Of course, if you cannot use a rectilinear door for some reason, please don't read this message.

Alan

too late-and some responses

Jack from Maine

>I don't mind reading your message,thanks for responding,everyone, however I already have the doors completed and finished. All they need is glass.They are both rabbetted so I can use wood trim. I was ready to putty the glass because others have said it was done in the period.The problem is I don't think putty alone will hold it and the wood is too hard for small diamond glaziers points,at least for hand insertion. I was hunting for other unknown means of retaining the glass. I think I could make a perfectly functional wooden retainer with a little experimentation.

I'll get back to it and see what I come up with.---Crackerjack

Non-historically-correct method

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I've, once or twice, used the thin open-cell, sticky-back weatherstripping foam to prevent rattling when installing glass with a wooden retainer. Of course, as Jim points out, you may want the rattle to make it historically correct.

Warning: think carefully about both how you're going to install those brads and how you're going to drill the hole in the bead to ensure that you don't accidentally try to drive a nail throug the glass - it doesn't like it much. DAMHIKT, but I hope the crack I started on a fixed window held in with beading doesn't ever extend itself...

Glazing points...

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>There are other types of glazing points besides the usless diamond shaped ones. I really think that these points are only really good for breaking a glass pane when re-puttying anyways.

"Red Devil 1710 glazing push points" let you push them in with a putty knife though I find that a small paint scraper works better. See the photo for a look at what I'm talking about.

You hold the push point against the pane and rock the point into the wood with the scraper on the little flats. I pushed these into Merbau (AKA Kwila) and that is waaaaaay harder than any North American hardwood.

Cracks in window glass...

Mark Harrison -- in Sydney, Australia

>If you have a crack in a window (I'm assuming you are talking about a house window here) then replace the glass as soon as you are able. If you don't, I guarantee you will find a rot patch at the end of the crack in the future.

Re: Glazing points...

Jack from Maine

>I probably could have gotten those points to go in if I pushed harder but they're just too big anyhow.The two lugs that you push against stick up too high. Those things are designed for house windows not cabinet doors. I believe you need a special tool to insert the diamond points.

The place that cut my glass said they'd put diamond points in for me if I want but I'm not sure I want to use putty. I'm still trying to get info on period methods for retaining glass.

Anyone know of a source of info on this subject?

Thanks for your reply,I don't mean to sound ungrateful. ---Jack

Re: Glazing points...

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Seems to me I read an old FWW article that did talk about glazing glass into a cabinet door. Just don't ask me to find it, please...I have to climb up into the attic and fight with cobwebs to get to old issues of FWW.

Re: Glazing points...

Jack from Maine

>No problem. As I wait and search,I'm working on the problem. I started shaping some beads for the square door last night. Also I'm thinking about ways to make round beading for the dial door.If I slice some strips of cherry thin enough and laminate them together I should be able to make a continuous bead that stays tight against the rabbet by trying to straighten itself--HMMM--or something to that effect. --Jack

Oh, thanks a lot, Mark

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I really needed to hear that in the midst of all the other #$%#$^$ projects on this house...

No, really, thank you; good to know.