Anybody know the specs of railroad spike steel?

Re: Anybody know the specs of railroad spike steel

Dennis

>Not real sure what your asking but the simple test for old steel like railroad track is to drop a steel ball,like a 1" ball bearing and see what the bounce back is. If your asking about the iron spikes that held the rails then IMO its anybody's guess how good the steel is. Me,i think the best source for making stuff is car/truck leaf springs.

Dennis

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ps: the more i try the smithy stuff the more i understand why it was 2 different trade's

Touch it to a grinder

Bob Hackett

>After you locate some info out of most any blacksmithing book about reading the different types of sparks you can get a (very) rough idea of what type of steel you have.The pattern and color will tell you alot.After reading up on the subject just compare the sparks from the spike to known steels such as a leaf spring,an old chisel,a piece of hot or cold rolled,etc.Short of having a lab do a test this is about as good as it gets without tracking down a source for spikes and asking them what they use.My guess is you`re looking at mild steel,the same stuff they make 10d sinkers out of only on a much larger scale.I know a smith who twists,then forges spikes into a blade shape but they`re only good as letter openers as the carbon content isn`t high enough to allow hardening into a durable blade.What did you have in mind making from these spikes?

Mainely,Bob

Re: Touch it to a grinder

Randy Johnson Connersville, IN

>If you stop and thing about it, not only is there no reason for railroad spikes to be high carbon, it could even be detrimental (sp) to the use. I would be surprised if they are much higher than 1025 if that.

Re: Anybody know the specs of railroad spike steel

Todd Hughes

>The advice to do a spark test on the steel is probably the best thing to do.As far as i know railroad spikes were made in Mild Steel, High Carbon steel and with older ones, made out of wrought iron. I was told by a couple of blacksmiths that made axes and knives out of rail road spikes that suitible ones made out of High Carbon steel are marked with a HC stamp and they showed me examples of them. I used to look casually for Wrought Iron Spikes because I wanted wrought iron more then I needed steel for what I used to make and in my experance most spikes you find are mild steel.....If you are looking for stock to make something the best bet for somthing this size is Concrete or Jack Hammer bits which in my experance is good steel.....Todd

I guess it makes sense for them to be softish.

Ed Snow

>I had heard somewhere that there were two types.

Re: Anybody know the specs of railroad spike steel

Ed Snow

>I need to make a small anvil. The top surface needs to be about five inches long and about 3/4" wide with a crest down the middle tapering off to the edges. Maybe some 90lb/yard track,cut the top off and go from there.

Re: Anybody know the specs of railroad spike steel

Todd Hughes

>I have seen many anvils of course made out of Rail Road track, some very well done some less so.I always thought that it would be alott of work to make one, am sort of thinking many got made while the maker was at work and he was making it on his boss's nickle so to speak, but just speculating now. Personaly I would just pick up an old small anvil on the cheap as they are pretty easy to find,[just got great MINT one this size last week still with the label on it for $10] or even look for one that was already made from a piece of track though I don't think these would be as good as a good manufactured Anvil......Todd

Small anvils

Bob Hackett

>Just a suggestion but if you`re at all interested in metal work a regular size anvil is the way to go.I`d pony up the money for a good one as once you have one you`ll wonder how you did without.As far as smaller scale work goes,IMO a bick(also known as a bickern)when used with an anvil,platten,swage block or leg vise is the best way to go.A bick is just a smaller forming tool that is meant to be used with a larger(and more stable)base unit.Having that base unit makes all the difference in the world.

Even if you make a smaller tool to do the job I`d recommend making it so it`s held in a large vise rather than leave it freestanding on a bench.Look at a jeweler`s tools and you`ll see that even they use a substantial base for stability and to ensure the energy is transfered to the work properly.

That being said,you can make a special purpose anvil out of just about any appropriately sized piece of mild steel.If it`s a tool you`ll be using alot,consider coating the working faces with hardface rod(like they use on excavation buckets)for durablity.Lay it on as smooth as possible as it`s a bear to grind.Polish it and put it in your will.

Mainely,Bob

what little i know

Dennis

>I remember reading that the old railroad track was better than the track they use today,something about the they way is made i think.

Couple month ago i got 2 sections,16" long for nothing,and we did the bounce test on them,one of them had one spot were the ring was odd but it still bounced ok.

Also picked up small anvil,says made in usa on it 9"x2",has 5/8" hardy hole,never been used for $15.

I dont plan on doing anything big but who knows if i found a anvil at a Todd price.

Dennis

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Roll yer own anvil...  *LINK*

GolfSteve in Calgary

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