Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Scratch Beading Questions
Dirk Wright
>Ok, I can't find anything anywhere about how to make a bead on the edge of board go around an outside corner. I'm using the Lee Valley scratch beader, but obviously, I can't bead around a 90 deg corner with the normal beading cutter. The inside part of the bead would be easy, but the outside part can't be done without a special cutter. Is that how it's done, with a different cutter that matches the beading cutter? Any help is appreciated.
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Tony - Memphis
>I thought you would just do the corners by hand with a block plane and chisels? That's how I've seen/done where the shaping tools left off. Its not near as hard as it looks! Pay particular attention to the unsupported grain at the ends, it will chip right off.
Tony
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Dirk Wright
>Yow. that seems really hard. I'll give it a try though. thanks.
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Chris Knight
>Dirk,
If I have understood your question correctly, it's simply two beads that are required. Run one up one side of the corner and the other up the other side (at 90 degrees to the first, using the exact same cutter - easy as pie.
Chris
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Dirk Wright
>I guess I didn't explain very well. I want a continuous bead at the edge that goes around all four sides of a rectangular piece of wood. In the corners, the scratch beading tool will not reach around the outside corner without cutting through the bead on the orthogonal edge. I don't want to cut through the other bead, so I was asking what kind of tool to use to finish the bead on the outside around the corner. Dang this is hard to describe.
Tony suggested using chisels to finish the outside part of the bead, but, while doable, is something that I'd have to extensively practice before getting right. I was hoping for some kind of tool or cutter that would do it instead. I think if I had two identical beading cutters, I could grind/file one so that it just had the outside part of the profile. I suppose that's what I will probably do, since I have some blank LV cutters for his beader.
Now that I think it about it some more, I think one of the stock cutters can be arranged to make half of a beading profile, solving the problem. Now I have to experiment on scrap to find out.....
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Brian Greene
>Dirk,
I haven't figured out how to wrap a bead around a 90 degree corner either. What I have done when the bead is more important to me than the shape of the corner is round the corner so that the beader will follow the curve.
That may be an alternative if the method suits your application.
Brian in Ottawa
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Adam Cherubini, NJ
>Dirk,
The problem isn't the bead its the quirk. You can't do what you want, and nobody ever has (you know what I mean. Drawer cock beads look like what you want, but the side pieces are separate for the reasons you are struggling with.
What you could do is put the quirk on the other side (the edge for example) using the face as the fence side. That would give you a nice rounded edge. You could add the quirk on the face side with a separate, quirk-only, scratch stock and clean up the long stretches with a snipe bill.
Otherwise what you are doing isn't typical. You can't there from here.
Adam
Re: What's a snipe bill? (NM)
Brian Greene
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Re: Scratch Beading Questions
Dirk Wright
>I got what you're saying. thanks. I have some experimenting to do.
I don't know what a snip is either, but I got the gist of what you meant.
Re: Scratch Beading Questions
John in West TN
>Snipebill
(Snipe"bill`) n.
1. A plane for cutting deep grooves in moldings.
A pic is attached of a pair of snipe bill molding planes. Shows the shape but not the blade.
Quirks and Snipe Bills
Adam Cherubini, NJ
>Thanks for posting that picture, John.
Just in case your are interested:
Quirks (no not the particle physics quirks) are important features. As decorative elements, they create deep, dark shadow lines separating molded or flat elements.
For us, they are helpful for hiding gappy joints. Common (quirked) side beads are typically found where boards are joined with T&G. The inevitable gap turns into a decorative element when a quirked bead is applied to one of the boards. The created quirk should be similar in size to the designed in gap between the boards, leaving a neat appearance.
Snipe bills, typically found in 18th century inventories, create and refine quirks.
Adam
Thanks
Brian Greene
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