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Chair Seat Hollowing

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Chair Seat Hollowing

#1

Chair Seat Hollowing

Doug Reynolds

>I am making a Brian Boggs inspired ash shave horse as in FWW #139. My poplar seat is designed more like a chair seat than a bicycle seat. I was thinking something more along the lines of an old metal tractor seat mounted on spring hinges as my design model. What are some very general guidelines for hollowing a seat i.e., about how far down should I scoop the deapest recesses of the seat and, how wide should the "ring" around the back 2/3rds of the seat be?

Thanks for the help. Doug in Seattle

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

#2

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

Paul Brandley

>Doug, I don't have the answers for you, but I've often thought of doing something like that with a movable seat. Also, I was thinking of making it convenient for doing some woodcarving on smaller pieces & sticks by turning the seat 180*. I almost bought a used farm implement seat to use as a model, but they wanted to much. Paul

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

#3

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

Doug Reynolds

>Paul: I actually thought of buying a used riding lawnmower or motorcycle seat but, that would not be in keeping with the finest traditions of handcrafted woodworking that a fine shave horse deserves.

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

#4

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

Eric Hedberg

>Doug,

If you're looking for guidelines on windsor style seats try The Chairmaker's Workshop: Handcrafting Windsor and Post-and-Rung Chairs by Drew Langsner. He lays out the mechanics of working the seat from which you could extrapolate your design. Eric

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

#5

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

Paul Brandley

>Doug, my riding mower has a comfortable seat, but it is padded so can't really go by that. What I do like is that it comes up the back just a little, I think that provides more support and cuts down on the fatigue.

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

#6

Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

Mike Jurnigan from Suffolk, VA

>I am attaching a photo of the shave horse that I use. Granted it is an antique that I picked up at a yard sale. One of the guys in the Richmond Antique Tool Society (RATS) that happens to be an expert on hardware dated the shave horse for me from some of the hardware that is on it. It is ca. 1820-1830. The thing that makes it nice to use is the long ramp in front of the head. If you are doing long thin spindles like those in a chair it is great. Also for shaping the piece to make the bow for a bow back or continuous arm Windsor. You get much more support with this one than the other designs I have seen. I also have the Drew Langsner shave horse as well. On comment concerning the seat you are planning. Based on personal experience you need a long seat behind you. I find myself working to the backside of my seat when working long stout stock. Unless you devise a seat that is easily adjusted you will find this difficult to do. If you are looking to increase your comfort level, and I do know that sitting on that plank for long periods can be uncomfortable I would suggest some type of padding. I once saw a shave horse set up in a museum with a burlap bag filled with corn shucks; some one had a sense of humor. If the interest is out there I have taken some close-ups and will post them with some basic dimensions and other details.


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Re: Chair Seat Hollowing

#7

Dont' hollow!

Greg Betit, Crown Point NY

>I don't want to put a damper on your project, but Mike's comments about a long seat area are right on. Especially for the longer pieces, I find myself hanging off the back end of my horse. But I scoot back and forth depending on where on the piece I am working. If your seat is hollowed, I think that it would tend to restrict your movement.

Just my 2 cents...

Greg

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