Re: Saw sharpening question
Adam Cherubini, NJ
>I don�t know whether you are asking about set or tpi? With the utmost respect for Adria and LN, I wouldn�t use these saws as models for what you should do. They seem to be beautifully made saws, but not necessarily set up correctly for all work. Saws are complicated things
I think you are doing the right thing buying a few more things than you need and experimenting with them, BTW. Think that's a reasonable approach, FWIW.
My advice would be different depending on the work you do, but this sentence is pretty specific. My question is about tpi for the various uses in casework, dovetails, rip, crosscut, etc. I'm assuming you are working the woods I use (tulip, pine, walnut, mahogany, cherry).
In the 18th century, it seems cabinetmakers filed all saws rip. How and why they cross cut with rip saws escapes me. Untill we figure it out, I�d recommend taking your longest saw (the 14�) and filing it cross cut. Specifically: 12ppi (or so) 20-30 degree rake, 20 degree fleam (for hardwoods). Set can be very low for obvious reasons. I don�t recommend no set.
Take one of the 6� gent�s saws (the one with the narrower blade) and file that as fine as possible. 15ppi isn�t too fine. Use a 5 degree rake (obviously 0 fleam- it�s a rip saw) and set very lightly. I�d file the near teeth, then turn the saw around and file the near teeth again to push any burr inside. Don�t stone this saw! Reserve this guy for thin stock, 1/2� or less.
Turning your attention to the Jackson, I�d make that saw your primary drawer dovetailer (because of its length and handle). File 12-14 ppi rip. If you are new to dovetailing and hand sawing and have trouble getting your saws to start, go with a 5 degree rake. You deserve every possible advantage. Once you get better, consider changing this to 0 rake (easy change at some subsequent filing). A moderate set is a good thing for a beginner. The saw cuts slower, but its easier to correct a wayward cut. I recommend not resetting this tool. As you cut more, you get better. As you sharpen, you gradually remove the set.
Take your pick of whatever 12� saws you�ve got left. File this the same as above but 12 ppi max. This will be your carcass saw.
The last backsaw every cabinetmaker needs and none of us have is a true tenon saw. This should be 9-11 ppi and 18� long. You could try making one out of a miter saw. In the meantime, do what I do and use your carcass saw as best you can.
Last words: In case you haven�t guessed, my preference is for very low rake rip saws. Low rakes cut faster, but are trickier to use. I also prefer low sets on all back saws. I prefer coarser saws since I think really fine saws clog in thick material. In general, the thinner the stock, the finer the teeth. Forget about �smooth� cutting (Disston marketeering). That�s almost always a red herring in my opinion. I've arrived at 12ppi as the right pitch for 4/4 stock.
All of my recommendations are a matter of personal preference. I recommend using them (or someone else's picks) as a starting place not a definitive answer to your question. Keep in mind that set and rake are essential for discussions like this since this is what you feel most.
Good Luck
Adam
