shellac

Re: shellac (rubbing out to flatten lustre)

David Barnett

>You can use pumice and mineral spirits, but be sure the shellac has cured good and hard. Recharge the pumice often as it's highly friable. You want the coarser particles to do most of the work.

You can also use a very fine 3M grey pad for this, but really pay attention to pressure and direction for best effect. You don't need to let the shellac cure nearly so much for this. If you're really careful, you can do this in a couple hours or so (if you padded light, thin coats).

Re: shellac (rubbing out to flatten lustre)

Tony Z.

>Thanks Dave, I read your message last night and ordered some pumice and rottenstone from L.V. to experiment with

Re: shellac

Paul M. in San Diego

>I just did this a couple of weeks ago (see my Tea Table posting on 3/15). Here's what I did. It's not quite conventional, but it worked really well.

1) Level the finish with 320 grit paper. I did this by hand with a small block of soft pine as a backer. I used the good Norton stuff with the stearate to prevent clogging. Wipe both the sandpaper and the workpiece regularly with a towel to prevent build up of shellac dust that would cause clogging of the paper.

2) Level again with 400 grit stearate paper.

3) Again with 600 grit paper (auto body paper). Use very light pressure, and go over lots of times.

4) Again with 1000 grit paper. A lot of people do the above steps with a lubricant, but I did it dry. It works dry as long as you don't bear down with too much pressure, and regularly clean the paper and workpiece.

5) Now switch to 0000 steel wool. I found that using an auto wax such as McGuires (I had that in my garage) helps lubricate the steel wool.

6) Use the white plastic wool (Scotchbrite) and McGuires. I've found that the white plastic wool is a great final sanding grit before the real rubout begins.

7) Use just McGuires and a soft towel. The auto waxes all contain a slight abrasive like a rottenstone. It's contained in the wax which acts as a slurry. I did this step a few times until I got the sheen I desired.

8) Use mineral spirits to remove the auto wax, and then add your favorite paste wax for the final finish.

This is hardly conventional, but it worked well for me. I tried to learn to use french polish to avoid all these steps, but I just couldn't get that to work. I followed several books and videos, but I just couldn't get out all the track marks. But the above steps only take a couple of hours tops, so I'll stick with that.

As stated by others, make sure the shellac is fully cured before starting this. I waited a week after the last coat before starting. Also make sure to use freshly cut shellac from flakes as that cures the hardest.

Re: shellac

Tony Z.

>Thanks Paul, your message is giving me a clue to issues I have--namely the wrong sandpaper. This morning I review Bob Flexner's book on finishing and he recommends silicon carbide paper w/mineral oil & spirits as a lube. I tried everything but silicon carbide paper, and out of exasperation went to steel wool. As an experiment, on a spot that I polished with 4-0, I then went to a 3M white pad followed by 3M Perfect-it III (final rubbing compound for auto paint jobs, also does great for mirror finish to scary sharp). The result I got on a small area was what I wanted, but the length of time involved to get there was huge, for such a small area!

Re: shellac

Alan Hamilton

>Tony,

Before sweating some more, try waxing it. My favorite way to finish shellac is to rub it out with 0000 steel wool, or its plastic equivalent, with wool lube (IMHO it's worth it to track down some wool lube) and then wax. I do two go-rounds with the wool, lightening up on the second.

I brew up my own wax. I don't really measure things very carefully, but my best guess is that I mix equal amounts of carnuba and bees wax with "just enough" turpentine to make keep it the thickness of warm butter. The carnuba is so hard I can buff it out to a really high gloss. My wax concoction will take a finish that's about "satin" and bump it to semi-gloss, or even a bit shinier.

Alan

Not the rottenstone, Tony...

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>that would bring up full gloss. Just the pumice.

Best, Ted

Re: Not the rottenstone, Tony...

Tony Z.

>Thanks, I want to stop at satin! I'll save the rottenstone for the items my wife likes shiny!