Hey Rob Lee!
Tony Z.
>Any chance you'll be making your "saddle square" out of steel? My marking knives have scored my square, plus I find that a steel knife "slips" rather easily when striking against an aluminum edge.
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Hey Rob Lee!
Tony Z.
>Any chance you'll be making your "saddle square" out of steel? My marking knives have scored my square, plus I find that a steel knife "slips" rather easily when striking against an aluminum edge.
Re: Hey Rob Lee!
Dave Anderson Chester, NH
>I can't speak for Rob, but I'll bet the answer is no. Aluminum extrusion dies and the minimum runs are expensive enough, the ones for steel would be far more expensive. Additionally the cost and time to machine the steel would be higher and the cost of the deburring and finishing would be prohibitive for small runs. Maybe you need to work a little slower and more carefully Tony.
Re: Hey Rob Lee!
Ross Canant - NE Texas
>I'll second that request. We score against a square in timber framing, and an aluminum square won't last a day doing layout.
Re: Hey Rob Lee!
Tony Z.
>Its not working slower or more carefully--If I go any slower my wife will call the undertaker! My marking knives are razor edged. As a carpenter's apprentice some 25 years ago, I was taught to not use an aluminum framing square with a steel marking knife. A pencil is ok. Steel slips against aluminum. When the knife slips you usually end up with a nicked finger too. The other minus is that the aluminum doesn't last with any use--this is the case with the saddle square.
Re: Hey Rob Lee!
Paul M. in San Diego
>Its not working slower or more carefully--If I go any slower my wife will call the undertaker!
That's one of the funniest things I've read in a while! I'll be stealing that one!
Re: harder guides are not the answer
paul womack
>My marking knives have scored my square,
This can happen even with a steel guide. My Japanese marking knife took an excellent shaving from a tempered steel ruler, much to my annoyance.
My answer has been a tiny, shallow back bevel; this provides clearance (1/10 thou is enough), between the cutting edge and the guide to avoid damage to the guide whilst not compromising accuracy to any degree worth worrying about in woodwork.
BugBear
Re: harder guides are not the answer
Lyn J. Mangiameli
>I think this is great advice. As you say, it should only be the faintest hint of a back bevel, but that's all it takes.
As one who once took a shaving from a BCT brass folding dovetail guide, I emphasize with everyone's pain, and this is the solution I adopted. It works better for me with blades that don't come to an acutely angled tip though.
Re: Hey Rob Lee!
Rob Lee
>Hi Tony -
Sorry for the delay replying - was out of the country...
You've already had a bunch of good suggestions here though (wrt sharpening).
No - we don't have plans for a steel one. It'd be difficult to manufacture in the same configuration, a lot more expensive, and just wouldn't have the same feel.
Cheers -
Rob Lee