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Handsaw problem

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Handsaw problem

#1

Handsaw problem

Davy Barr

>I'm having a problem with a CE Jennings saw that I own. It's a beautiful saw with a nearly perfect carved handle and had obviously never been sharpened or set. When I proceeded to set the teeth, they were so brittle that quite easily snapped. Evidently, the steel is too hard. My question is, does this thing need to be re-tempered? Or is it just inferior? Or can it be set in the hot sun for some hours like I hear some people do with new Japanese chisels? Thanks for the help. I would have thought that such a top-of-the-line looking saw would have better steel than this. :(

Re: Handsaw problem

#2

Re: Handsaw problem

Roger Nixon

>Is it possible that this is C. E. Jennings version of the Disston Acme 120? That one was made deliberatly to run with no set and the teeth would break if someone tried to set them.

Re: Handsaw problem

#3

Re: Handsaw problem *LINK*

Ted Shuck

>Hi Davy,

There are several potential problems with setting the teeth on this saw. I can think of a couple of likely ones.

1) The saw was not meant to be set. There were some saws made that have hardened teeth and no set, such as the Disston #120 ACME. These saws were ground with a more pronounced taper than conventional saws so they don't need any set if used in dry hardwoods. If you try to set the teeth on these saws, they will break off. I don't know if Jennings made any saws of this type, but yours could be one. If your saw has never been sharpened and never been set, this is probably the case. Look for that more pronounced taper as well.

2) Your saw may have been set, but may have been sharpened several times since, so it does not appear to have much or any set now. If you cannot detect the original set, you may be setting the teeth in the opposite direction to the original set. I have found (DAMHIKT!) that if you set in the opposite direction to the original set, even if the original set is barely perceptible, the teeth will break.

Hope this helps,

Ted


ACME saw page at the Disstonian Institute

Re: Handsaw problem

#4

Re: Handsaw problem

Todd Hughes

>What is the saws number on your saws blade etch? While back I picked up a real nice Jennings metal cutting saw, looks just like a regular wood cutting panel hand saw but is for cutting metal. Mine has an etch saying this and also warning not to set the teeth.Unfortunatly mine has the teeth ground off about half the blade and re teething started,[I bet after teeth were snapped off] but imagine as soon as they saw how hard it was they stopped.I tried to get my Amish Saw sharpener to finish it but he wouldn't touch it. Awful to because it's a nice clean saw with a good etch.Is a shame that you messed up what sounds like a near mint and somewhat desirable saw... Don't think laying any tools out in your backyard in the sun will do anything to thier temper unless you live on Venus and the temperture gets up to about 350 deg. or so.......Todd

Re: Handsaw problem

#5

Now, I'm not very smart...

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>...but I'm pretty sure that link's not about saws... ;)

Re: Handsaw problem

#7

I got rid of the bad links

Dan Donaldson

>Todd, I removed the offending links. It looks like a viri or spyware gremlin has gotten to your computer. It stuffs these things into your messages without your knowing about it.

Re: Handsaw problem

#8

Re: Handsaw problem

Mark Kuzee

>Dave,

Sorry to hear about your busted teeth. Tom Law told me they will "grow back" with subsequent sharpenings. I don't think that will help you much though the way it sounds.

I have a CE Jennings A 70 1/2 model that is a real joy. The etch claims that it is to be used without set. When I purchased it some set was already present. I did sharpen it and may have reset the teeth some (sacrilage to the purist). I had no problem with breakage though. These "no set" saws were probably made with harder teeth but if they still need sharpening the mfg. couldn't make it to hard.

You may have a problem with either setting to much or dealing with teeth that have been weekend by someone putting more set in the teeth than needed. Just make sure that all the set is on the tooth and not in the body of the saw. Your pivot point of the set should be on the tooth itself. Hope this info helps/

Re: Handsaw problem

#9

Re: Handsaw problem

Davy Barr

>Hmm. It could possibly be the no-set saw, but I'm offshore on an oil platform in the Gulf of Mexico right now and can't check it. The reason I tried to set it is that when first trying it out it kept binding in the kerf. Of course, this was in pine and not super dry hardwood. If it makes any difference, the saw is for sure a 5 1/2 point rip saw.

Re: Handsaw problem

#10

Re: Handsaw problem

Angelo in Cornwall, NY

>Davy, I had a similar problem with a Harvey Peace 5 1/2 rip. Turns out I was setting the teeth too deep. Luckily, they were all near the toe. If I recall, the no set saws were all crosscut.

Re: Handsaw problem

#11

Hey Todd ;-)

Dan Donaldson

>Were you able to find the Gremlin?

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.