Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
candle box
George D. Huron
>Here is a photo of a candle box project that will be taught in my school (soon to be open in San Antonio, TX). Note the dovetails mitered at top and bottom to hide the grooves that hold the box lid and bottom. I know that they are hard to see.
Any tips?
Scott in Douglassville, PA
>Mitered dovetails are on my "To try" list - any tips on them? I'd take your class, but SA is bit out of the travel budget. ;) If you'd be divulging too many trade secrets, I'd completely understand.
Thanks,
Scott
Re: Any tips?
Doug Reynolds
>Scott: Rob Cosman's Advanced Dovetails video has three segments: half-blind; mitered; and, "hounds tooth"...at least I think that is what he called it. Have not had lunch yet so I am in the midst of a senior moment. Just get some stock and go for it.
Re: candle box
Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA
>Nice design. I like the subtle curve on the lid - sets it apart from all those other sliding-lid box designs.
Re: candle box
Brian Greene
>George,
Very lovely work.
I'm about to start a small box for a friend -- say about 4" wide by 6" long by 1-2 deep. I like sliding tops.
My question is what is the best way to do the curves? Mark out the profiles on the ends and plane/scrape to the profile. Is there a different way?
Thanks
Brian in Ottawa
Re: Any tips?
George D. Huron
>Here are the important tips:
Use a marking gauge and set the gauge to the EXACT thickness of the material before gauging for the dovetails. I create the miter by sawing across the diagonal of the "square" in the corner of each board being sure to stay on the waste side. The square is formed by the gauge line and the edges of the board itself. I stay proud of the diagonal and pare to the diagonal with a bench chisel. With 1/2 inch thick stock I can create the diagonal line with my imagination and so I don't use a guide block. Use very flat stock. Bowed stock will give you fits in both the dovetailing and the mitering.
Re: candle box
George D. Huron
>I only mark with a pencil and my finger how thick I want the edges of the lid and then how far in from the edges I want to extend the bevel. Then I use a handplane to remove the waste. A scraper is helpful if the grain goes knarly on you.
Re: candle box
George D. Huron
>Here is the bottom of the box. The bottom is rabbeted and flush with the sides. I have never tried this but a variation is to make the top and bottom look like this picture and saw off the top of the box. You could then put a mitered wooden liner in the bottom so the lid would be held in place or install hinges. You might could see the miter in the corner closest to you in this picture.