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The Drawknife

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The Drawknife

#1

The Drawknife

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>The drawknife is among the most useful and versatile tools in boatbuilding and general woodwork, but is also frightening, because it can behave like a power tool and get the beginner into a lot of trouble very quickly. Overcoming that trouble, however, is merely a matter of sharpening the tool and learning to read the grain of the wood.


As my stones live their life out on the bench where they belong for daily use, they are filthy from saw and metal dust and need cleaning. A simple stiff parts-cleaning brush and a pan of kerosene does the trick. I�ll relube them generously with cutting oil as I use them.


Then I simply mount my stones on a board extended from the Workmate so the drawknife�s handles have clearance, and clamp everything down firmly. The blade back is flattened first, using coarse and fine stones�.the single most important phase of sharpening�.do it thoroughly. Handle clearance is critical because sharpening is best done with both hands holding the blade�.not holding the handles�.and close to the stone for better feel.

This drawknife is an ancient family piece from Granddad made by Braun in Schweig, Switzerland�the blade has about half its original depth, one tang has a silver braze repair and these are the third set of handles I am aware of. I suspect my Great-grandfather brought it with him when he immigrated. It�s the only one I own�or need, as it still works just dandy.


The blade bevel is 20 degrees�we�ll hone that next and add another 5 degrees or so of secondary bevel.


The primary bevel is honed on the coarse stone and secondary bevel on the fine stones. With a bevel this large, and with proper hand position as shown, it is simple to �feel� the bevel so as to not add rocker to the primary bevel.


Then I strop both edges on the 8 inch buffing wheel with Knifemaker�s Green Rouge�.you should use a leather strap anchored to the floor if you haven�t done a lot of freehand buffing, as catching an edge and throwing this piece downwards is an excellent route to arterial bleeding.

Continued�

Re: The Drawknife

#2

Re: The Drawknife

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>

Now we do the second critical part�reading the work piece. Pushing a felt tip pen against the board firmly will cause ink to seep along the grain line where it is not obvious. On this plank of Red Alder I have marked the grain�you can see the grain runout that occurs even in a properly milled board around the knots�.


�.and where there was a knot nearby even though it isn�t evident in the board. I�ve also marked the only direction the drawknife will successfully cut.


Moving to the shaving horse, it becomes obvious that the drawknife will cut cleanly with excellent control slicing in the direction of the grain�.


�.and will dig deep and gouge (below) when slicing in the wrong direction:


But if this were a rough planking bevel on a strake you just spent an hour getting out, can we clean the gouge and recover? Sure�.


�we just switch to the direction dictated by the grain, regaining our precise control and can rough-cut clean, accurate bevels that only need a touch with a finely-set smoothing plane to make perfect.

Handles up or handles down? Push or pull?

All of the above. The angle of the blade�s attack doesn�t change when the tool is upside down, but cutting with the bevel down gives better control in taking thin shavings�.and cutting with the bevel up is several fold as fast as using a plane to hog wood rapidly.

If you look at a larger view below, the blade in my pics is slicing on a very slight bias�my left hand is an inch or so ahead of my right hand while pushing...and as the blade dulls, I'll increase that bias unconsciously as I work:


It�s a mistake to think these tools are only suitable for tapering riven cedar shingles�.a little practice pushing as well as pulling and you can rapidly trim with precision a piece too big to move into the shop�.

�once you master reading the grain of the wood.

�Perhaps then, you will say, �But where can one have a boat like that built today?� And I will tell you that there are still some honest men who are not scared to use hand tools, who can sharpen a saw, plane, or adze: there are still some who know that a little healthy exercise will not do them any lasting harm. To be sure, most of these honest men live and work in rather out of the way places, but that is lucky, for in most cases they can acquire the provided boatbuilding materials for perhaps one third of city prices. But, best of all, some of these gentlemen�s boatshops are in places where nothing but the occasional honk of a wild goose will distract them from their work.� -- L Francis Herreshoff

Re: The Drawknife

#3

Re: The Drawknife

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>: Das Schnitzelbank, by Drew Langsner, chairmaker...I built it to his plans using old-growth DF with Madrone dumb head/treadle and lined the wear surfaces with brass or copper:

http://www.countryworkshops.org/CWshavehorse.html]http://www.countryworkshops.org/CWshavehorse.html














Re: The Drawknife

#4

Re: The Drawknife

Todd Hughes

>I have sharpened lots of draw knives and have found that it is much easier and produces better results if you take the stone to the drawknife instead of taking the draw knife to the stone. I just hold the one handle in my left hand and brace the other handle against somthing and then holding the stone in my right hand sharpen the blade. Much easier then trying to move a awkward two handle blade over a stone.....Todd

Re: The Drawknife

#5

Nomination for Entry in Articles & Reviews section

Christopher Fitch @ Memphis

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Re: The Drawknife

#6

Re: The Drawknife

John, NY

>Interesting piece. I confess that I use my drawknife mostly for roughing work. I haven't really got the clearance to try it any closer to my lines since the forms start to get in the way and i'm battering my hands against them. Gets a little painful after a while and I find that I have such a steep step to my handles that using it upside down and pushing is cumbersome and is not something i've mastered. I then tend to go to my spokeshave which can still take some very thick shavings from the mahogany hog or keel.

I tend to find that it is when I get to the stage of using my spokeshave for fine work on other parts that things are more difficult. Have you ever tried shimming [as in the new LV spokeshaves] to reduce the mouth for taking those fine cuts?

Re: The Drawknife

#7

Re: The Drawknife

Bob Smalser, Seabeck, WA

>I've done it that way, too...whatever works for you....but my teenagers wind up with a whole lot of rocker on their bevels sharpening that way.

I'm convinced that the technique I've show is the best way for the inexperienced to sharpen.

Re: The Drawknife

#8

I second that, Great post!!

Bob Dodge

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Re: The Drawknife

#9

Jim in Burlington Ont.

Definately needs to be added

Jim in Burlington

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Re: The Drawknife

#11

Re: The Drawknife

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>Thanks for the great post. I am definitely drawknife-challenged, and your pictures and text have been a help.

Re: The Drawknife

#12

Yes, but we need some assistance...

Garrett in Victoria BC CA

>I've already lifted Bob's spokeshave and drawknife posts, but we desperately require folks with HTML expertise to help us publish them. If anyone wants to volunteer some time, please contact Ellis.

Cheers, Garrett

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