Basic Planer Set-up

Re: Basic Planer Set-up

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I would go with the #7 jointer (for edge jointing) instead of a #6, and add a #40 scrub plane.

Re: Basic Planer Set-up

glh

>Your list looks good, but here's my opinion on some things. I wouldn't go with the scraper plane. I use hand scrapers and have a #80 and really don't have a need for a scraper plane (Veritas makes a upgraded model similar to the #80). I would also substitute either a #7 or #8 for the #6. I don't have a low angle #4, but do have a low angle jack plane that I use often. I would also suggest an adjustable throat on the block plane.

Also, if you plan on using a bench plane to thickness your boards/panels, I would also suggest a scrub plane.

Like the others say...

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>I'd ditch the 6 for a 7 or 8. If it was me I go for a 7, you can use it as a big (panel) smoother and if it's a LN you can get the high angle frog for it also. Never heard of a low angle No. 4, so I belive you ment a LA jack (i.e. LN62)? If so, good choice. Scraper planes are nice but you can get away with card scrapers or a No. 80 for now. I'd go for the LN 60.5R instead of the 140 to start too.

Re: Basic Planer Set-up

Brad in Ottawa

>If you ditch the #6 like others are suggesting go for the #7 over the #8.

The blade width for the #7 is the same as several other planes, whereas a #8 blade fits a #8 only.

There are times that I would love to switch the blade out of my #8 instead of resharpening.

Brad

No6, No4 or 4.5, Block, shoulder in my opinion

Andrew F in Australia

>

Re: Basic Planer Set-up

GolfSteve in Calgary

>I would ditch the #6, the #5-1/2, the scraper plane, the LN 140 skew, and the low angle #4. So far, I agree with the 4-1/2.

Here's what I have and find useful - a #8 jointer, a 4-1/2 smoother, the high angle frog for the 4-1/2 smoother, a 60.5 low angle block plane, a 60.5R low angle rabbet plane, a shoulder plane, a scrub plane, and some card scrapers.

Follow up with a couple of spokeshaves (one flat bottom, one round bottom).

I know a lot of people like having a #5 plane to knock down localized high spots, but I just grab my 4-1/2 for this task.

When dimensioning rough timber, I start with the scrub, switch to the #8, then finish up with the 4-1/2.

The rabbet plane and shoulder plane are handy for fine tuning your joinery - you could get away with only one of these two, but it is nice to have both.

Re: Basic Planer Set-up

Alan Hamilton

>Lloyd,

I too suggest you get a #7 instead of a #6 for flattening and jointing. The longer sole makes both those jobs easier.

Reactionary that I am, I would also not get either of the low angle planes you mentioned. I would get standard planes until I had a real need for a low angle plane. So far the only low angle plane I have is a Lee Valley low angle smoother that I use as a dedicated miter plane; I've tried it to smooth panels and such, but I wasn't happy with the results. I've never needed another low angle plane; my standard block plane has never failed.

IMHO standard angle planes generally work better for day to day planing than low angles--that's why they're all called "regular" or "standard" angle planes. It's only occasionally you would need a low angle plane.

Alan

Re: Basic Planer Set-up

Lloyd Robins

>Thank you for your replies. I am looking at the LV planes and was thinking of the LV #6 as the LN #7 is about twice as much. I like the idea of a scrub and maybe the LV shoulder and the LN 60-1/2R. I might have to save a little longer.