How to tweak a Knight plane, or any wooden one?

Watch the video... *LINK*

Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA

>See for yourself Jim!


http://www.knight-toolworks.com/video.html

I have, and still...

Jim Campbell of Boulder CO

>I can't quite get the super thin fluffies. I get nothing, try and sneak up on it tapping on the blade, all of a sudden I'm thicker than I want, then try and back off and suddenly I'm back to nothing.

I guess I'll keep playing.

Re: I have, and still...

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>The easiest way to get very, very close is to place the plane on a piece of hardwood, insert blade and wedge, let them fall to the hardwood, hammer the wedge. If this doesn't take any shaving (it seldom takes too big a shaving), then lightly tap the blade, try again.

Pam

Re: I have, and still...

Jack from Maine

>You might want to try a different hammer. Some like wood,some like small steel hammers,some like brass.Try a few different types. It may make a difference for you.I use the LV brass plane hammer with a wood insert in one end.---Jack

This is how...

Steve Kubien

>I have tuned my Knight smoother. I find it easier to adjust than my Bailey's. The 'light taps' are light enough to avoid denting white pine boards.

Keep at it. You'll be glad you did.

Steve Kubien

Ajax, Ontario

Hey Steve Knight

Derrell in Austin

>What type of plane are you using in the video?

Re: This is how...

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Whether light taps work depends totally on the plane you use, how tightly the blade fits in the abutments, etc. So I lightly tap the HNT's and LN 1/2" shoulder, but have to chunk pretty hard on my Japanese smoothers (these are custom made, ymmv).

Pam

Re: I have, and still...

Steve knight

>practice makes perfect. Plus the weight of the hammer will make a difference and the material. a steel hammer will give the most positive results per tap. but a too heavy hammer and the blade moves too much too light and you have to hit the the blade/plane too much.

Re: Hey Steve Knight

Steve knight

>well that is not me (G) but I can't get real player to run without charshing right now. but if I remember right it is one of my hybred coffin smootehrs. kind of my inbetween regular plane and a coffin smoother.

Re: I have, and still...

Steve knight

>I use my fingers. I have the blade resting on them and I push the blade up so it is just flush or just a bit retracted then wheh the wedge is tighted the blade is pretty close. I use my fingers to feel if the blade is square and how deep it will cut.

this is far easier then eyeballing it. but if your finger tips are covered in gorilla glue it makes it far harder. or if the plane has a more open mouth.

Re: I have, and still...

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Well, I don't eyeball it either; and for me, my way is much faster, just slam it down, bash, and go. Your way I'd have to spend a lot of time worrying about my fingers.

Pam

Re: I have, and still...

Steve knight

>worry about your fingers? what that they will get cut? I have never cut them checking a plane. I cut them doing stupid things instead (G) or worry that your fingers are covered with glue (G)

Ditto on the Hammer

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>I have only one wooden smoothing plane, an original Knight Toolworks unit. When I first got it, I found the adjustment difficult, and put it away for a while. Then I got a couple of little Japanese plane adjusting hammers, and it got a lot easier. Later on, I got the LV brass/wood hammer. I find it to be perfect for this plane (perhaps other hammers suit other planes better).

Jim - What hammer are you using?

Custom Plane

Jeff Schmidt (KY)

>Steve, it appears to be a custom plane. It looks more like a wooden version of your infill smoother. Tall protrusion in front, with a healthy hump behind the blade. It looks both comfortable and functional.

Re: Custom Plane

Steve knight

>I don't think that design worked any better then the coffin smoother. but it was more of a pain to built. I had a lot of idea's then every week I ahd a new idea.