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Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

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Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

#1

Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

Phil Smith

>A couple of years ago the Holston Valley Wood Working Club taught a plane class on making Krenov style hand planes. We used David Fink's "Making and Mastering Wooden Planes" as a guide for making the planes. The book has an excellent description of how to cut and assemble the planes. I built a block plane which works well.

But base on my experience with cutting, clamping and aligning all of the parts I looked for an alternate method to built this style of plane. I have developed what I think is a simplified method which uses only 2 pieces of material to assemble the plane body.

Below is a picture of a finished smoothing plane with 50 deg. bed angle.



Picture of mouth.

The process is based on using a pair of mirror image jigs and a router to rout out the inside of the plane. Picture of the jig is shown below:

The jig was made from scrap poplar. To make the jig you cut block with the desired plane bed angle and glue the edge of the block to another board which will eventually become the fence for the jig. I then cut another block with a curved profile and glued it in line with the first block. The distance between the blocks is adjusted to give the appropiate gap between the bed of the plane the leading edge of the plane iron. Gap depends on router bit size and guide bushing combination. Once the glue has dried carefully cut the jig in half on a band saw to produce a perfectly matched pair of templates.

To produce the plane above I clamped the templates to a 2" X 4" X 10" piece of Ipe and routed out a section that is slightly deeper than 1/2 of the plane iron width. Once the two halves are routed I use a flat surface such as a table saw or jointer and carefully line up the two halves to ensure that the bed is lined up, clamp and drill a single dowl alignment hole at each end.

Once the two halves are produced, fitting of the cross pin, plane iron to the mouth and wedge are the same as the standard Krenov design described in Fink's book.

I have made patterns for planes with 35, 45 and 50 degree bed angles. The 35 degree is for a low angle, bevel down block plane which works well on end grain.

Re: Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

#2

Re: Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

Steve Knight

>I like the idea. but I see it to be a real pain to get the bedding to match perfectly. there is no room for error there.

it is tricking gluing up the planes. been doing thousands and it is still something I have to be real careful doing.

but if this glueup fails even a ltitle it may deastroy the plane.

I have been thinking of a way to mill out the inside of my planes but I have not come up with a good idea yet.

Re: Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

#3

my experience

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>I have some planes made with this approach and they are equivalent to the ones I have made by traditional Krenov/Fink methods. In my less than nible hands the ramp alignment went well and even if it didn't, ramp adjustment would be no more a problem than in the case of planes cut from a single piece. This approach would be particularly attractive in cases where several planes are to be made, or even mass produced.

Re: Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

#4

Re: my experience

Steve Knight

>ramp adjustment is not something I want to have to deal with on a regular basis. it really adds problems to making planes. as it is now after I make the cut on the body I lap the ramp on my surface plate to get it really flat.

Plus wood thickness is a issue this style of plane really needs 1/2 wood. gluing up for thickness then ripping and gling up again may make life a real pain.

I am looking into milling out the mouth/plane ramp. but I cna't afford the tooling. but i think it would make a better overall plane as the plane would only have one glue joint.

Re: Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

#5

Re: my experience

Phil Smith

>I have not found alignment to be an issue if you start with flat and square stock.

I also don't glue up and then split. Instead I purchase 2"X4" (1.5" X 3.5" finished) Ipe lumber from one of the local lumber yards. They stock the material for building decks. This will make a finished plane with an iron up to 2 in wide. I flatten the face to be glued on the jointer and faltten and square one edge on the jointer. What will become the glue line is now flat and what will become the plane sloe is flat.

After milling out the center I place the pieces on a flat surface such as a jointer and carefully line up the two pieces to give a flat bed for the blade. You can feel .001 to .002 inches on a crisp edge by hand. Clamp and dowl as per Krenov design.

I've not had any trouble filing the bed and fitting the plane iron.

With this technique the plane sole needs very little work to be flat.

Re: Simplified Krenov Style Plane Design

#6

Re: my experience

Steve Knight

>but I need 3"x3" stock and i can't find dry ipe thicker then 4/4. I want 10 or 12/4 stock so I can get make my planes use the full 2" width of the irons. but that size is pretty limited.

I agree you can feel the difference. but even after 4 years it is a battle to do good glueups. gorilla glue tends to slip when you clamp it.

but multiply that one plane by say 15 and do you want to adjust the bed of all 15? (G) I would wear out files at a record pace (G)

then I would need a big router. the cost of the bits would get pretty spendy. I use up a solid carbide endmill about oonce a month just cutting the slot cheeks out on the planes.

but your basic idea may help somewhere along the line. milling the planes out I think is the way to go. say dovetail the sole to the body then mill out the inside.

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