WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

Posts

OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#1

OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

Randy Todd in Dallas GA

>I keep reading about all the joys of muscle power, and now seven Ebay Baileys later I've broken down and ordered the Hock wood plane kit from Woodworkers Supply. (He refers to Krenov as an influence in the design which consists of two blocks, two sides, a pin all of Rock Maple, plus a Goncalo Alves sole)

I've read the instructions through twice, and still feel there must be more to assembling this plane correctly. The only obvious question I have concerns the dowels and where they should be located. Ten are included with the kit. The diagram shows using 8 total to attach the sides of the plane to the blocks which form the main body. These dowels are shown installed one on top of the other at the extreme ends of the plane, two per side per end. The other two are apparently to be used when gluing up the sole, but no location is indicated.

FINALLY, my question is where is the best location for these dowels, and what else should I consider in assembling my plane. I don't want to mess my new tool up. . .

Thanks,

Randy in Dallas GA

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#2

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>I haven't put one of those kits together, but in my opinion the most critical item in how the Krenov style plane works is how the wedge fits. If it fits good, locking the blade down securely across the full width, you will have a good plane.

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#3

Why not email Ron?

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#4

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

Clay Craig in Miami

>I built a couple of these at CofR last summer, so here's my best recollection. I don't know what Ron puts in his instructions, of course.

The dowels should go as far as safely possible out at the corners of the cheeks, same with the sole, so that they (and the part of the plane they pierce) are trimmed off when you trim the plane ends to final size.

The David Welter article in the 10/97 issue (#126) of FWW lays out and illustrates all the details (and measurements, such as they are) and is almost exactly the way they teach it at CofR in their plane-making class.

I posted a picture of my Krevov-style planes here a few weeks ago, let me know if you want me to repost it. Same materials - maple body/cheeks and GA sole.

Good luck, have fun - you'll be glad you did this.

Clay

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#5

Steve Kubien

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

Steve Kubien

>Hi Clay,

I must've missed them pictures before. I'd like to see them again as I'm planning on making one of these some day soon (it's item #113 on the to-do list).

Thanks,

Steve K

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#6

making Krenov planes, guaranteed success

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>David Fink has written a book on making these planes. He has taught many classes on making planes and from the experience of these classes, plus has aptitude for teaching, his instructions are lucid. Additionally, he points out all the places where students may go astray. I believe if you gain access to the instructions in this book you will not fail to make a very good plane the first try.

The plane kit, in my opinion is needlessly complex. First, only 4 dowels are necessary to hold it together, all in the upper corners where they will be cut away during shaping the plane after assembly. The cutting away of dowels is purely for looks.

As for adding a "wear resistant" sole I see no need for this additional complexity. Just plain maple wears well enough to last several years of typical hobbiest planning. I'm 3 years on my maple block plane. It is the only block plane I own and I use it as often as the typical woodworker. It shows no sign of wear yet. The simple Fink design is so quick to make I regard the planes as disposable.

I talked with the cabinet maker at Fort William in Ontario about plane wood. He has experimented with everything native to the area and concluded maple has the best wear resistance(of the domestic woods), better than beech in his hands.

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#7

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

Dmitri

>I also started with his kit several years ago and made several mistakes while making it.

As a result it did not work right for a while until I found out the problems. As other

people mentioned, location of the pins is not really important. Things to watch out are.

After you assembled it make sure that sole is *flat*. The edge of the chip breaker is

tight against the iron. If it is not tight and there is a gap, shavings will jam there,

which was one of my problems while I thought that it is because mouth opening is too

narrow (I know now that it makes no sense). To remedy this "problem", with a file I opened

mouth too wide and latter on had to add insert in front of the iron to make mouth tight

again. So, the third point is. Do not open mouth to wide. Half of millimeter is a good

opening for all around plane. And of course there is no such thing as too sharp. Make

iron as sharp as you can, you should be able to shave hairs on you hand smooth without

wetting skin. 8000 grit stone is good for me but some people take it father. Outside of

this, I think, plane making is really a simple craft. Tight mouth, sharp iron and flat sole

are three key ingredients for a good plane.

Dmitri

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#8

Steve - pic 1

Clay Craig in Miami

>Here they are, Steve (2d pic to follow). I intended to shape the back one when I made it, but I've found that as is, I can hold it almost any ol' way I want, which has come in handy. Presumably if I were to wield it for hours on end, I'd have to pick a shape and commit.

These work quite nicely - they leave a better surface than my 605 (in admittedly unchallenging woods)

(I can't get my pics to keep detail but get below 40K - need to work on this ...)

Clay


img

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#9

pic 2

Clay Craig in Miami

>The goncalo alves soles.

(If CofR knew that it was MY planes that were being shown as examples, David and Jim would run into the night, rending hair and garments. Let's just say that, even aside from my trip to the Fort Bragg ER, I was not their star student.)

Clay


img

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#10

Re: making Krenov planes, guaranteed success

deanj

>I searched the common places (Amazon, Cambiumbooks, etc) and couldn't find a book by David Fink? Is it still in print?

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#11

It's Finck *LINK*

Jim Stafford in GA

>The last name is spelled Finck and it is a great one. I made one in his class last year. BTW he is coming to Dogwood Institute (yes, I teach there but they have supported WC in past) on March 26-27 in Alpharetta, GA to teach that subject and you make a handplane in the class. www.dogwoodwoodworking.com

Also, I've placed a link below where you can see the book/ISBN/etc.

Good luck.

Jim in GA


Hand Plane Book

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#12

Re: making Krenov planes, guaranteed success

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>It's "Finck", and it does seem to be out of print. I'd suggest searching from time to time at abebooks.com or bookfinder.com for used copies, as well as at Amazon.

Pam

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#13

Thanks! NM

deanj

>

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#14

I have an extra copy...

Ted Owen, Pittsburgh

>of David Finck's Making & Mastering Wood Planes, with foreword by James Krenov. I'll put it up on the WoodCentral Benefit Auctions, Dean, so you and others can have a shot at it.

All proceeds benefit WoodCentral.

Best, Ted

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#15

book availabe at Manny's

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>Manny's in Lexington KY had some copies as of a month ago. 1 800 243 0713

Re: OK, this is ya'lls fault, now help me out

#16

YOU GUYS ARE AWESOME, THANKS!!

Randal Todd

>

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.