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First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

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First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#1

First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

Schwim

>Hi All,

This Lie Neilson rabbett block (L-N 60 1/2 R) is my first venture into handtools. I kind of bought it as impulse on the suggestion of a worker at Woodcraft. Got it 10% off which clinched the deal.

I will mostly be doing powertool work and liked the idea of having rabbetting capability as well as block plane.

Question is-- Is this really a good first plane (too late now), and how much setup do I need to do. I tried it out of the box at the store on some walnut and it seemed dreamy to an inexperienced me. Next I need to buy some sharpening method. I plan to venture into Japanese chisels. What method should I persue. I've read good things about diamond paste.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#2

Jim in Burlington Ont.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

Jim in Burlington Ontario

>Oh no warning your on the slippery slope. Sharp hand tools. Don't know about japenese tools but buy Leonard lee's sharpening book. Micro abrasives from LV or go right to waterstones. Happy to see you post.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#3

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

Frank D.

>Hi Schwim,

your impulse served you well, the 60.5R is one of my favorites. You can use it for a lot of regular block-plane applications except maybe smoothing, and it also does a good job for joinery (shoulders, tenons, lap joints). Just give the blade a hone on your finest stone (or whatever you have) and it's ready to go.

The best sharpening system is one that is easy and handy for you to use. They all work, and they all have pros and cons. I love japanese stones because they are fast, but my Nortons stay flatter longer. I'm not a fan of scary sharp but it's hard to break a sink cutout when you drop it on the floor or leave it in a freezing shop. Diamand stones are very handy for rough work, but they are initially expensive. Ceramic stones are nice for touch-ups because you don't need water or oil handy. I would say do as much research as you can and start with what you think will work for you, then go from there. I use a combination of several systems depending on what I'm sharpening and where I happen to be.

Have fun,

Frank D. in Montreal

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#4

re:

glh

>I have the same plane and mine too worked well right out of the box. In fact, everything I've bought from LN has worked well right out the box. I did lightly hone on my 8000 grit waterstone before using on cross-grain.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#5

You "done good"

Jim Stafford in GA

>I was advised by an old woodworker friend that if you could only buy one LN, go for the 60 1/2. I did and have never been sorry. That was before they had the "R" version. If it had been available, I would have gotten the "R".

Let me put it this way, I know of very few LN owners who do not have the 60 1/2 block plane among their other LNs.

It works pretty darn good right out of the box especially if you've never used a real sharp plane before. Like some of the other posts here, I use a variety of methods to sharpen. It would be handy and cheap for you to put a sheet of 600 grit paper on a $1.60 marble tile from HD to keep it sharp. And it really helps if you have a strop with some Chromium Oxide on it to top it off. I take it you live near a Woodcraft. They sell a stick of C/O for about 6 bux and it will be a lifetime supply unless you go into the sharpening business!

Try to find some leather to glue to a piece of plywood for the strop. I use the strop much more than the stones. WC's price for this piece of "leather on board" is enough to buy you a low end combi Japanese water stone with 800/4000 grit (which you'll eventually want). In fact, they sell a leather apron for $30 that is so long that I got a good strip about 3" wide across the bottom which made me 2 strops (and the apron is still plenty long)!

As to slippery slope, I now own 4 LN pieces. The 60.5, the scrub (40), the low angle smoother (62), and the DT saw (rip tooth).

I'd own the #4 bedrock if I didn't already have so many Baileys in that range. But as Curly said in City Slickers "Day ain't over yet!"

Ahhhh, the smell of the hand plane, the feel of the wood!


img

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#6

Re: Basakward

Ernie Miller Topeka

>I think you have it wrong " The smell of wood and the feal of a nice hand plane" who smells there planes?

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#7

Just curious

Dan Donaldson

>Is that last sentence a take off from "The Roar of the Greasepaint, the Smell of the Crowd"? I saw that play a long time ago and it was an interesting experience in that it was done in the round. Fun time.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#8

That's the (theater) ticket....

Jim Stafford in GA

>Ernie,

Ahhh, yes. See Don's post below. Good eye Don....

Jim in GA

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#9

Re: rabbet blade corners

Moses Yoder in White Pigeon, MI

>On the rabbeting block planes you will want to leave the corner of the blade sharply square, whereas my other block planes I normally round the corners just a tad in case I want to use it for smoothing a small board or a wide short edge. The Lie-Nielson plane works okay out of the box, but if you polish the back ( not necessary to polish more than the 1/2" closest to the cutting end, be sure to keep the back perfectly flat) and put a highly polished bevel on the edge (it should glint like a mirror) you will be planing end grain like you wouldn't believe. I rounded the bottom corners of my plane just a tad so they weren't sharp in my hands, and will probably round them a bit more just to make it a little more comfortable to hold.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#10

Scratch stock beading tool links??

Bob Dodge

>Hi, I'm looking for a plan, or article on making a scratch stock,beading tool. I know I saw one recently in a woodworking magazine, and have looked through most of mine with no luck. Any suggestions? Links? Thanks, Bob

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#11

dont polish - backbevel

Jonathan Ronnow, Sweden

>You know, you dont have to polish the back at all. Just put a tad of backbevel there - say 5-6 short strokes on 0.5 micron lapping film. There will be a tiny backbevel that will actually strengthen the edge, and it sure is faster than polishing the back. Look into Leonard Lees sharpening book to see this more explained.

Just get (or leave) the back flat to make it bed well, sharpen the bevel to the second finest abrasive, backbevel on your finest and microbevel or polish the main bevel. If you make the backbevel small enough, it will be erased when you sharpen the main bevel the next time.

Jonathan

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#12

DNA Marking

GolfSteve in Calgary

>This plane is, by far, the best method I've found for marking every project with a bit of my DNA.

I just can't remember to keep my index finger away from the exposed edge of the blade when I'm planing.

I would also like to get around to recessing the hole for the lever cap screw. This should make it less problematic to get the lever cap in place, adjusted, and tightened down without everything falling to pieces at the wrong moment.

Nevertheless, it is an excellent tool.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#13

Re: DNA Marking Redux

Kirk in HMB, CA

>I used mine a fair amount on Sunday, and that night, couldn't recall what I'd done to get nasty little cuts on 3 fingers. Now I recall.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#14

Re: Scratch stock beading tool links??

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

>Hi Bob,

FWW around page 80 sometime early in 2003 if memory serves me correct. If you look in the Jan/Feb 2004 mag their is an index for last years articles it should be listed in there.

I am at work right now but if I get a chance when I get home I'll look it up and get the exact issue.

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#15

Re: Scratch stock beading tool links??

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>Temporarily disregarding your blatant hijacking of this LN thread, we will humor you with this link to BugBear's Scratch Stock page.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#16

Re: Scratch that hijack

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>William, I don't think mentioning the hijacking is a disregard. Nice try; but you're just helping the hijacking. Now, if you'd said nothing of the hijacking as well as providing the responsive reference, that would be a disregard.

Pam

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#17

Re: Stand and Deliver!

William R. Duffield on the Cohansey

>Maybe I should have said something like, "Since you're new here, and obviously unskilled at these affairs, you don't get any extra points for this unintentional hijacking."

In the 17th or 18th Century, what would have been the optimal tool set to accomplish a hijacking? Let's say you were in a rural area of the American colonies, as exemplified by the opening credits of The Woodwright's Shop.

Re: First Plane-LN Rabbett Block

#18

Re: Stand and Deliver!

Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX

>Let's try brute force first. I'd take the axe and chop down a tree by a road curve so that it fell across the road, then hide and wait for a wagon to come around the curve. Then I'd jump up on the wagon lickety split and threaten the driver with an axe, hoping I wouldn't have to actually hit him. I'd unhitch the horse so he could pull the log out of the road, then hitch him/her and go on my way.

Pam, who's concerned this is a little violent, but has just spent several days with a wonderful dvd, "Open Range", and is still thinking about it

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