Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Jointer Question
glh
>To what extent are the LN low angle #7 jointer, the LN #8, and the LV #6 substitutable for edge jointing? Nearly all my jointing needs involve cherry, walnut, popular, and maple. I have a #8 bedrock that works fine, but I would like to use 2 planes with one adjusted for a very fine shaving. That's what I'm interested in a new plane for. So the question relates to very fine shavings.
Re: Jointer Question
Scott Burr in Ben Lomond CA
>Well I can tell you the LA #7 will not work for your application because it has no adjustable mouth or frog. I'd look at a regular 7 or 8. The 6 is too short for a good jointer IMHO.
Re: Jointer Question
Jim O'Neal
>The C&W try plane will give shavings as fine as the best smoother.
Another Question...
Jonathan Kaplan (OR)
>If you have a #8, and edge-joint with it first, and the edge is flat & straight, what's wrong with hitting the edge w/ a smoother set to take a very fine shaving? If you only take 1 or 2 passes, you shouldn't mess up the straightness or flatness, should you?
I ask because this is what I've been doing (keeping my #8 set for medium work, and using a #4 set very fine to clean up after it), and it *seems* to work fine.
Am I missing something?
Re: Jointer Question
Wiley Horne--Glendora CA
>I enthusiastically second JIm's opinion. The planes you mentioned are all excellent planes for your purpose (with the substitution that Scott noted). For a dedicated jointer, you might want to go longer than a #6, however, Andrew F. just jointed a bunch of 8-foot boards with his, so it'll serve the purpose if you particularly like that length.
However, if you are willing to consider a wooden plane, the C&W trying plane at 22-24" in length is one of the supreme pleasures you will come across in handtool woodworking, particularly for edge jointing. And as Jim said, it will leave a surface every bit as good as a smoother. Bill Clark will ask you what size shaving aperture you want. Mine is 3 to 3.5 thousandths.
Wiley
re:
glh
>Thanks, I'll look into the C and W jointer also. I have their website bookmarked.
Re: Another Question...
Pam Niedermayer - Austin, TX
>If you plane sprung joints, a short smoother could muck things up; but if you get a full length shaving with uniform thickness, it should work.
Pam
Why?
Brent Langdon, Sterling, VA
>I am a definite hand plane neophyte with only a couple planes and have only edge jointed a couple times. I have my #7 set for fairly thin shavings. If the edge needed a lot of work to make it straight I would use my #5 to knock off the high spots and use the #7 for final jointing. I have not seen a need to touch up the edge after the #7. Do others?
- Brent
Re: Another Question...
Russell Seaton
>keeping my #8 set for medium work, and using a #4 set very fine to clean up after it
Clean up an edge after a #8?
Re: Jointer Question
Charles
>You're making things too complicated.
Re: Why?
Steve Kubien
>I do the same as you. Now then, I haven't done a whole lot of edge-jointing to-date but I haven't had a problem with this method. I've only got a no-name #7 as a jointer for now. Nothing fancy. I'd like a wooden one because I like wooden planes not because the #7 comes up short.
My 2 cents
Steve Kubien
Ajax, Ontario
re
glh
>I don't see what you find so complicated. I don't think it's that unusually to have one plane set for a thick shaving for rougher cuts and then finish with a one set for a fine shaving. The board I buy (direct from saw mill) are typically very rough.
Re: re
Russell Seaton
>I don't think it's that unusually to have one plane set for a thick shaving for rougher cuts and then finish with a one set for a fine shaving. The board I buy (direct from saw mill) are typically very rough.
If the boards are rough wouldn't you use a coarse set #5 first to get rid of most of the roughness, then a finer set #5 to get it pretty flat, and then use your one and only jointer set with a reasonably fine cut and mouth to get it flat and straight?
I think the "you're making it too complicated" applied especially to jointers set at different shavings and fineness. Not a #5, a use it for everything plane. Do you use a jointer set for a rough cut to get your sawmill boards to about flat and then follow up with a finer set jointer? Or do you do it like me and use one or two #5s to get it ready for the jointer plane? Or with smoothers you can start with a "rough" smoother set to take a middle cut and then finish with a real fine set smoother plane. I thing smoothers are different in this regard than jointers.