Stanley plane widths

Re: Stanley plane widths

walt quadrato

>No. 1-1 1/4" (blade width add 1" to be safe)

No. 8-2 5/8" (again blade width-add for safety)

Anything else will fall between those ranges. So if you go to 3 5/8" you have a good margin of safety; I'd add a rail too; hate to see a #1 do a nosedive...

walt q

Re: Stanley plane widths

walt quadrato

>Just re-read your post..I was looking at it wrong in my mind..(senior moment, sorry)here are the blade widths for the bench series add 3/8 to each for casting width (unless you have a few WWII models.they�re a tad wider and the �H� series..again heavier=wider)

#1-1 ��

#2-1 5/8�

#3-1 ��

#4-2�

#41/2-2 3/8

#5-2�

#5 � -1 3/4

#51/2-2 1/4

#6-2 3/9

#7-2 3/8

#8-2 5/8

walt q

Re: Stanley plane widths

Andy

>Thanks for the info! Now I can figure some dimensions....

Andy

Pendleton, IN

For future reference...

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>I think just about all of them can be found here.

Scott, who did the same thing just this weekend

Re: For future reference...

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Patrick Leach's published widths for Bailey type bench planes are the cutter width, not the width overall. I would suggest you do not try for a "French Fit", because there can be quite a bit of variation in actual width over the years. For example, both of my post-war jacks (#5 and Victor #1205) are 2 7/16" wide, while my three-patent-date #4 is 2 3/8, but they all have the same width cutters. My #3 (post-war) and my #10 (1893-1899 vintage) are both 2 1/8" wide, but the #10's width really is the blade width. My WWII era #8 is 3 1/8" wide, and my true-to-the-original-design L-N #607 is 2 13/16 wide. Maybe I should have measured it to the nearest 0.01" because that's what the modern YBs expect?

Since none of these is a dado or plough plane, a precise width was never all that important, as long as the cutter fit into the body, and the plane fit the craftsman' ideals. Therefore, there was never any industry-wide standard, and Stanley, or whoever else had a "better idea," just did it.

What I do, when I lay out a space to hold tools, planes or otherwise, is attach the dividers with hot melt glue (so far, I haven't found a whole lot of other really good uses for it in the traditional handtool woodworking shop), so I can easily move them later, as my needs/requirements/tastes/�sthetics change. What are you going to do when you fall in love with your first Millers Falls or Keen Kutter or Auburn Metalic, or Spiers Infill, or Steve Knight, or C&W or....?

Re: Hot melt glue - thanks for a great idea

Angus Barclay, in New Zealand

>Thanks for that great tip.

Its plainly obvious now that you've said it, but until reading your post I couldn't figure how I was going to put sturdy-but-still-movable dividers in my tool chest. I thought I'd have to resort to messy complicated hide glue.

regards

Angus Barclay

Re: Hot melt glue - thanks for a great idea

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Be careful when you remove dividers to rearrange them. If you just shove a paring chisel under them and pry, you can splinter wood fibers out of the drawer bottom. I have found it helps to slide a chisel or marking knife along each side of the glue bead, scoring it, and then lift it out, slowly. Then you can shave the residual hotmelt off of the drawer bottom with your weapon of choice. Might be the first really practical application for the L-N small chisel plane :^)

Something application for which I find hotmeltglue very useful is hot plates/trivets with wood frames and ceramic tile panels. Since you don't want the skillet or pot to touch the wood, the tile must be raised slightly above the frame. Tiles usually have bumps on the sides to keep them spaced properly from the next tile for an even grout line. Sometimes you spill food from the pot onto/into the trivet. When I make these, I set the tile into a rabbet in the fram, and allow about 1/32" all around each tile. I set the with a spot of hotmelt on each corner, and in the center of each rabbet. If I ever have to remove a tile for cleaning or because it got broken, the hotmelt is very accommodating.

My other favorite hotmelt use is in weedpots. Reference WC Articles, Tips and Techniques, for more info.

Re: Weedpots

Kevin F, New Zealand

>What are they?

I read that article earlier, but still couldn't figure it out.

Thanks

Kevin

Dadgumit...

Scott in Douglassville, PA

>Well, now I feel stupid. My plane rack ('cause "till" ain't the right word) is small-ish, will hold the few planes I have now, and I was (trying ) to leave room for an in-the-mail #18 and a someday purchase #8. Haven't yet built the hinged top; looks like I'll have to go a bit wider, as I'm sure I didn't leave enough room now...

The hotmelt's a good idea. Have to play with that one.

Thanks,

Scott

Re: For future reference... *LINK*

Andy

>I'm not planning on any dividers. I am thinking about using Bob Key's method of holding the planes in place (check link). This leaves you the option of adjusting them later and also takes up less space horizontally than dividers would. As far as space for other planes -- there will be room under the row of bench planes for plenty of other galoot gear....


http://www.terraclavis.com/bws/hanger.htm

YB?

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>

Re: Weedpots

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>A weedpot is a small turned (or sometimes not turned) vase, usually for dried flowers. What differentiates a weed pot from more typically turned vases, or "hollow forms," is that the interior is not turned hollow, but is instead drilled. This results in a much thicker wall.

With a waterproof container inserted in the central bore, they can also be used to hold fresh flowers.

My suspicion is that the term "weedpot" is a pejorative applied by the elitist hollow form turners who would not stoop so low as to even suggest that their art could be improved by using it in ikebana.

Re: Dadgumit...

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>No reason to feel stupid about it. The Leachmeister doesn't make the meaning of his measurements very clear. It's just something you find out when you decide to order a replacement blade for the first time.

Re: as in "FOYBEVO"

William R. Duffield, on the Cohansey

>Perhaps, ENB would have been more precise. These are Galoot terms, defined all the way down at the bottom of the OldTools FAQ

Re: For future reference...

Don Thompson - South of Miami

>When I was young, some of my crowd were worried about being mistaken for YB's. But we were usually recognized as Yuffies.*

* Young Urban Failures.

Thanks - always someting to learn!

Kevin F, New Zealand

>

Re: Weedpots

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>Actually, Sir W., I saw the term in common use years before the Hollow Form Men and Women got into seeing how far you could push the notion of turning a big interior through a small opening. I think it probably dates, at the latest, from the early 1950's and postwar art turning, but I was busy in those years learning toilet protocols and how to tie my shoes, so am not sure.