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Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

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Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

#1

Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

Russell Seaton

>Long title but it conveys the question I am wanting advice on. I am getting around to building the drawers to fit in the workbench base. The drawers will be on metal full extension ball bearing slides. Accuride, Bum, etc. The drawers will go inside of a large drawer case or two which will sit on the rails between the legs of the benchtop base. The question is should I use oak venner or baltic birch plywood or solid oak for the drawer case?

Size of the drawer case/cases is 57.5" wide, by 18" tall, by 22" deep. With solid oak it would be two cases equaling this total size and with plywood it would be one case.

Solid oak pro/con:

1. I already have about 80 board feet of S2S 4/4 white oak to use.

2. Upon looking over the oak last night, I discovered I was not too careful picking straight pieces. Its bent, twisted, crooked and is only useful for cutting into short pieces.

3. The bench is all solid red oak so a solid white oak drawer case and drawers would match very well.

4. I will get lots of planing practice.

Plywood pro/con:

1. Fast and quick and easier. Cut the top, bottom, sides with a fine circular saw and glue, screw, biscuit it together.

2. Everything will be flat, straight, even thickness, not warped and bowed and twisted.

3. I would have to buy suitable plywood. About $80 for baltic birch or $40 for oak plywood.

4. No worrying about expansion and contraction of the case. This might cause problems with the screwed on drawer slides and the screws I will use to attach the case to the bench base rails and legs.

Right now I am leaning towards using solid wood because my oak is so bad that it is only good for 2 to 3 foot pieces, which is all the drawer cases will require. But the possible/likely expansion/contraction problems with screwing drawer slides to the solid oak has me worried.

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

#2

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

Sandor in Boyds, MD

>I think you've already answered your own question.

I'd go with the solid for all the reasons you've stated, plus: I HATE PLYWOOD.

Don't worry about the wood movement. The drawer slides should have at least one horizontal slot which will allow the wood to move parallel to the slide. Your sidewalls will have the grain running up and down, so the shrinkage you care about is in and out of the case: parallel to the slide.

Sandor


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Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

#3

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

Don Thompson, Cutler Ridge, South of Miami FL

>I just got through retrofitting drawers to an existing bench-type structure, using full-extension and over-extension Accuride slides.

The biggest problem I had was that the existing structure (equivalent to your case, for this example), was not square. When I built it ten years ago, I did not plan for drawers, so +/- 1/4-inch did not matter. I ended up with a space that was wider at the top and back than the front and bottom. Metallic, ball-bearing slides really need to be parallel, and mine required 1/2-inch clearance on each side, +0.060"/-0.0". That is only about a scant +/- 1/32", if you pick the center of the allowed variation.

Since you are starting from scratch, you can plan for this. Build square, and you should not have to do a lot of shimming, like I did.

P.S. The other poster is right about the slides always having a horizontal screw hole at one end.

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

#4

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

Angus Barclay, in New Zealand

>Go with the oak.

I already have about 80 board feet of S2S 4/4 white oak to use.

Reason 1 to go with the oak.

The bench is all solid red oak so a solid white oak drawer case and drawers would match very well.

Reason 2 to go with the oak.

I will get lots of planing practice.

Reason 3 for the oak. Sharpen up the scrub and jack planes.

Plywood will be flat, straight, even thickness.

So will the oak after you've planed it!

The oak is bent, twisted, crooked and is only useful for short pieces.

See above for flatness.

Unless you are hewing from a log, everything is made from smaller pieces joined together. Just design according to the material at hand.

Plywood is faster and easier.

Is this a race? Why the need for speed?

No worrying about expansion and contraction of the case with plywood.

Ditto with the oak, if you design and build according the the material at hand.

And the clincher: a $40 saving = a new tool that you can use on this and future projects.

regards

Angus Barclay

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

#5

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

Hank Knight

>Russell, since nobody will speak up for plywood, I will. I'm in the process of building a bench and decided to take the time to build the drawer case before I complete the top - it's easier that way. I considered a frame and panel consruction, but I decided to use regular cabinet grade birch ply for the case - with some bells and whistles. I have designed the bench so I have a 6" space between the top and the top of the case so I have a place to put stuff to keep the bench top free of clutter (I hate tool troughs). I covered the top panel of the case with plastic laminate to protect it from dings and wear and then edged it with the white oak to match the base. The edging on the front and back is 2" wide, rounded over. It's only 3/16ths on the side edges where it won't get any abuse. I also faced the front edges of the drawer compartments with white oak. The drawers are 1/2" Baltic birch with white oak fronts. I painted the ply with dark (Lexington Green) milk paint and finshed the whole thing with wipe-on poly. It went fast and looks great.

My $.02. Just thought you might want an alternative view. Good luck.

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

#6

Re: Plywood or solid oak for workbench drawer case

Ernie Miller Topeka

>I'm doing that right now. Here is what I'm doing I am using a frame and pannel construction that way I can use up some short peices of white oak for the frame I got a bunch of 1/4" oak plywood from a cabinet shop dumpster that fits in the frames looks good cheep and quick. OOPs I fell short a little on the oak ply so I used a couple peices of mahogany ply on the center box (I'm making three boxes and on the inside of the two outer boxes. Being cheep I'm making wooden slides they seem to work pretty good if you wax them up. I still need to glue this all up and make the drawers. They will be an interesting hogpog also. So far they are looking pretty good. I will try and post some pic's soon.

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