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Stickering Wood

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Stickering Wood

#1

Stickering Wood

Dan Clermont in BUrnaby

>Hi,

I am looking for ideas on how to sticker some wood. Right now. I use my workbench and clamps. It works well but everytime I want to use my bench I've got to move it all and don't always get it piled back up.

I tend to be slow on projects and am always concerned about the wood warping. I was thinking about maybe putting together an old "nuilt-in" I removed from the babies room and using that to sticker wood ensuring the top was dead flat.

Also wondering if anybody has any suggestions as to weights to put on top of your stickered pile. Using clamps is a PIA.

TIA,

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

Re: Stickering Wood

#2

Why?

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>Is this wood that is air drying from its geeen state?

It sounds more like just plain dry wood inventory, in which case I wonder why the need to do what you are doing. Could you exlain more what problem you are trying to solve with this stickering?

I don't sticker dry inventory, nor have I ever seen it done.

Re: Stickering Wood

#3

Re: Why?

Dan clermont in Burnaby

>Hi Bill,

I don't sticker everything in my shop. Just the boards I am or have been working on. From my experience when you change a boards dimensions it takes awhile for the boards to stabilize and this can happen over time as well with weather changes so I always sticker my project boards on my bench to prevent cup, bow or twist. It seems to work but is a PIA.

Dan Clermont

Re: Stickering Wood

#4

maybe why

Bill Tindall, E. TN

>The practice you are following is not widely used, so given its inconvenience, it would be worth examining why you have found it necessary and try to cure the cause, rather than continuing to endure the inconvenience.

Lumber moves as a result of stress relief, or change in moisture content.

Stress can be present in lumber as a result of improper kiln drying, or bad luck during proper kiln drying. Encountering it should be a rare occurance. If stress is present the change in shape will be nearly immediate upon sawing or planning. The piece may cup, bow or twist. No amount of "conditioning" will reverse what happened. Hence, stickering is no cure or benefit for this situation.

Changes in moisture- Moisture gain or loss which is greater on one side of a board reletive to the other will cause cup. I have never see it cause twist or bow. This cup is normally reversable if the moisture on the two sides are brought to the same value. A "wet" board placed on the bench of a "dry" shop will, within a day, cup up, or visa versa. Stickering will lessen this event, but there may be other more convenient fixes. I just don't see much of this problem when working kiln dried lumber. (My lumber is stored outside in a lumber shed and the shop is humid in the summer (60+%) and dry in the winter (40%).) If you are working air (not thoroughly) dried lumber then I can see where extra measures will be called for. The convenient solution is to obtain dry lumber and store it under conditions not wildly different from shop. In this case any cup that might occur on a 6 to 8" board will be very small, so small that I don't worry about it.

Many fret needlessly about minor cup. Suppose one is glueing a table top 20" wide. Sitting around it cups up 1/4", or even 1/2". This is not something to worry about. A top this wide is quite flexible and normal table top fastening to the table frame will flatten it and keep it flat. Panels for panel doors are another matter as there isn't much hold them flat. Now that you reminded me, I do set these on end or sticker to keep air on both sides until they are installed.

Under the bed is a great place to store parts for work in progress.

Re: Stickering Wood

#5

Thanks Bill

Dan clermont in Burnaby

>I had a panel cup on me once and ever since then I have maybe been a little to cautious. I would probably spend even more time in my shop if I didn't have to unsticker my projects all of the time.

Dan Clermont in Burnaby

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