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PW article on edge jointing

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PW article on edge jointing

#1

PW article on edge jointing

Stephen in Ottawa

>In his article on edge jointing in the Feb '04 issue of PW, Don McConnell suggests using a slightly cambered iron on the plane to achieve a square edge. I've read of this technique on Jeff Gorman's site as well, but never tried it. I usually use an iron that is straight across and switch my downward pressure on the plane towards the high side of the edge to get a square edge. I've had good success with this technique, however am curious to try the cambered blade technique. My concern is won't the camber on the iron create miniscule scallops on the wood when I use my jointer for face jointing ( I guess this will depend on how much of an arc you put on the blade ), or do people who use this technique generally have two blades for their jointer? Also, do you create the camber on the grinder or will favouring one side of the blade, then the other when sharpening on my waterstones create enough of a camber? I already do this on my smoother's blade by favouring the ends when sharpening.

- Stephen

Re: PW article on edge jointing

#2

Re: PW article on edge jointing

Scott Burr in cold Ben Lomond CA

>I put a slight camber (0.005 to 0.010) on all my blades except my miter plane and of corse my scrub.

My jack plane has a larger camber on it. The idea here is to make a shallow "U" shaped joint (I mean shallow i.e. next to nothing) that will compress when gluing making for a nice tight joint.

Re: PW article on edge jointing

#3

Re: PW article on edge jointing

Christopher Schwarz

>Stephen,

I've become a big fan of the cambered iron approach on my #7 (Don uses a wooden try plane). The camber is only a couple thousandths of an inch and is all but flat in the middle. So you correct the edge with the camber and come back down the middle for a straight square cut. Works like a charm. Just glue up your edges from there.

Don makes his camber on his grinder (a hand-cranked one, naturally). I make mine like David Charlesworth recommends: by applying pressure at six different stations during honing, just like you do with your smoother. Both ways work (Don and I have even compared our irons side-by-side � how geeky is that? I love my job).

Hope this helps.

Chris

Re: PW article on edge jointing

#4

Re: PW article on edge jointing

Bill Houghton, Sebastopol, CA

>I do the same thing, Scott, and all this time I thought it was because I'm not a very good sharpener -- now I find out that I was following best practice.

Re: PW article on edge jointing

#5

Re: PW article on edge jointing *LINK*

Frank Mutchler

>I don't understand why planing a shallow 'U' into the edge of a two boards is superior to simply planing the edges flat. Is the shallow 'U' meant to compensate for edges that are not planed 90 deg to the face? I understand the theory but something about it 'rankles' me...too left brain, I guess.


Jointing Long Boards

Re: PW article on edge jointing

#6

Re: PW article on edge jointing

Scott Post

>The purpose of the crowned iron isn't to plane a 'U' into the edge, it's to allow easy compensation for fixing an out of square edge. There's an illustration in the article that shows the crowned iron taking off the high side of an out of square edge - that's the purpose for the crown.

The crown is greatly exaggerated in the illustration. It's only a few thousanths of and inch so the edge is essentially flat.

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