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More on Sintered Bronze

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More on Sintered Bronze

#1

More on Sintered Bronze

Mike DeHart, South Jersey

>I formerly worked in a tiny little division of Dana Corporation that made sintered powder-metal (PM) bearings used in clutches and brakes. You mentioned that to add a grease fitting you would need to drill through the bearing. This is certainly a PM bearing if the oil hole is not already drilled through. As was said below, PM is made by pressing fine metal powder into shape then heating (sintering) it to just below the melting temperature for a period of time, which structurally fuses the powder particles into a single part. The nature of compacted powder dictates that there will be interconnected pores throughout the finished part. This is good for oil. Oil will absorb into the porosity until the bearing is approximately 15%-20% oil. When the shaft rotates, the frictional heat drives a film of oil to the bearing surface. When the shaft stops and the assembly cools, the oil wicks back into the bushing. This works great as long as the bushing is saturated with oil. Since some oil is lost in use it need to be replaced. A drop or two each time you use it will keep the bearing saturated and working properly. If the resevoir has oil in it, the bushing is already saturated. The key here is to keep the bearing saturated. If the bearing is dry and you put a couple drops in the oil hole then start the machine you will kill the bearing since the oil cannot possibly wick through the pores fast enough to lube the shaft. Similarly if you put a drop of oil directly on the shaft, it will absorb into the bearing leaving the shaft dry and also ruining the bearing. There is a simple test to see if the bearing is saturated. Blow a heat gun on the bearing. You should see tiny droplets of oil form on the heated surface. If the bushing is dry due to use, abuse, or storage, be sure to saturate it before you run it. The quick industrial way to saturate a PM bushing is to place it in a jar of oil, draw a vacuum on the jar, hold the vacuum for a short time, then release the vacuum and let the part soak in the oil for a while. The air gets sucked out of the parts and the oil gets slowly sucked back in. The home method would be to keep the oil resevoir filled until the bushing soaks up all it can hold.

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

#2

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Good info and quite timely as just today I got the arbor bolted down and most of the table assembly built. I fiqured that I'd be a wise fella to start trying to get that bearing saturated in oil again since this arbor hasen't been used in whi knows how long. I know I haven't used it in the approx. 10 years that I've had it. I filled the oil with oil and it immediately disappeared. I did this several times until the resovoir stayed full, and since no oil dripped out I figure that the bearing is soaking it up which is a good thing.

I have no way to put these bearing in a vacuum but I figure that I can saturate with them with oil, then based on your info take a heat gun to it. Will a hair dryer work, or perhaps a propane torch be better. Other than a hair dryer I don't have a "heat gun".

Todd O.

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

#3

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

Roy Hennagir/Vista,CA

>Todd,

GO to QVC and buy yourself a vacuum packer! Not only can you marinate meat and save hundreds by buying food in bulk you can now save money by impregnating your bronze bushings with oil! I smell another info-mercial brewing!

Roy

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

#4

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

Mike DeHart, South Jersey

>If the bearing is soaking up oil like you say, you probably don't need the heat test. I would not use a propane torch unless you are confident in your ability to not overheat the surface and burn the oil. For general bearing use we used an industrial machine oil that was similar to a non-detergent SAE 50 straight grade motor oil. With thick oil like this we would heat it to thin it so it would flow better into the PM.

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

#5

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>Mike,

what I ended up doing was fiiling the cavities for about a week with with whatever oil is in a "Zoom Spout Oiler". I'd let the oil soak in, and fill the cavities again and again. Once I got the sander built I'd let it run for about 30 seconds, add more oil and let it soak in, than run it again for another 30 seconds. After a while I let it run for a minute and do it all over again. As time went by I could feel the shaft getting freer and freer. Just yesterday I saw oil dripping out around the bronze bushing, so I now believe that it is fully saturated. Also when I filled up the cavities the oil dindn't go down and was still there this morning. :~)

Todd O.

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

#6

SUCCESS!

Mike DeHart, South Jersey

>PM bearings are easy, once you unnerstand how they work. I hope you didn't use "3-in-1" oil. That crap hardens and dries like varnish over time. Then you have what we refer to as "resin impregnated PM" which is suitable for decorative plating but not worth a darn as a bearing. I can tell you about oil extraction if I need to.

Re: More on Sintered Bronze

#7

Re: SUCCESS!

Todd O. Cronkhite Native of Maine

>No Mike, I didn't use 3 in 1 oil, I used whatever oil it is that is a "Zoom Spout" oiler. This oil is used alot on motors in the HVAC trade. I think it is parrafin based, but don't quote me on that.

I didn't know that 3 in 1 hards like varnish over Time. Learn something new everyday eh?

Todd O.

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