Out side ceiling finish

Re: Out side ceiling finish

Are you trying to keep the wood-grain appearance?

If not, I'd go with an opaque acrylic stain which IMO is less troublesome than paint and out of the sun will last forever. However, I'd ensure the product is suitable for spraying.

Bill

Re: Out side ceiling finish

I would like to keep as much wood grain as possible.  

Re: Out side ceiling finish

What is the facia covered with on the rest of the house? I would paint it and if the other is covered with aluminum or vinyl, I would repeat that. Then the rest of it I would put on some kind of solvent based deck sealer. I'd also add a steel bracket over the seam on top of that post. Hopefully there is more than that joist to help the rafters from spreading. Maybe you don't get much snow load?

Re: Out side ceiling finish

You might want to consider painting the roofers the same color as the sky, specifically haint blue. That way, wasps will not make their mud nests on it, because they will think the rafters are open to the sky and will be predated by birds.

Re: Out side ceiling finish

If you are talking about the upright post and the two cross beams joining there, they are half lapped and screwed together with four Timer Lock screws.  We don't get much snow if any at all so snow load is not an issue.  The facia has been wrapped in metal since this picture was taken.  

Re: Out side ceiling finish

I have read and heard about painting it a light blue.  I really like the look of all the wood grain etc, that is what I was looking at a clear sealer.  I will talk with my boss (wife and see what she thinks about painting it).

Thanks

Re: Out side ceiling finish

In 2017 I installed a pine ceiling on a covered deck. I used a PPG exterior "transparent" oil finish. Not totally transparent. It gave the wood an amber tint which I liked and it looked good with the WRC posts.. I searched Home Depot but it seems the product has been replaced by this item. (link below) 6 years later it looks good expect for some areas of sap wood have darkened and looks to have sticker stain. I'm in a very high humidity area. Applying to a ceiling was a real pain. Working overhead with a product that is slightly thicker than water....drip drip drip. Roller dripped like mad when I applied pressure. With the sprayer I had drips and uneven coverage on the beaded edges also I had to back brush to get an even coverage. I could not spray close to the siding either. I ended up applying with a brush and a rag wiping a small area at a time not loading the brush heavily. Major PITA. If I were to do over I would consider a totally clear sealer (paintable) and apply with a sprayer. Our church has a pine ceiling on an exterior area that was never sealed and it now has a very dark weathered look. Depends on what you like I guess. Oh yeah...Use a really good drop cloth. PPG tech said at the time the product I used could be painted over using an oil based paint. Future painting might dictate what product you choose.

https://www.ppgpaints.com/color/stain-colors/transparent/natural-1-23

I second Dick’s concern

“ also add a steel bracket over the seam on top of that post. Hopefully there is more than that joist to help the rafters from spreading. ” Strength is in triangles, but only as long as none of the sides change in length. I don’t believe I would trust the fasteners in that juvenile yellow pine which has knotty defects. I can’t tell how much overlap you have, but some sort of metal strap on top would be easy to add. You may not have much snow where you are, but wind gust would be another big concern. I spent years racing sailboats and have been out in lots of storms, and know that sometimes a strong gust can hit like dropping a cow from an airplane onto your roof. 

Half the weight of all your framing, deck and shingles from half way out from the house is bearing down on your king post, which would be supported by the 4x4 chord, if there is any slip  at that other joint. It doesn’t take much to flex a 4x4. 

You can get Simpson metal fastener plates at any lumber yard, and I would get a long one and use lots of fasteners.  That will be a simple and inexpensive improvement that should give you a little peace of mind. 

6 x 6 Post

All post are 6 x 6 half lapped with 4 timber tech screws though them, two from each side.  There are also four coming from the top into the king post.  I will look into adding a metal plate on the top of them.  

Re: 6 x 6 Post

Mike, I agree with the others about the framing.  At the very least I would put the strap across the joint in the horizontal member of the gable.  And you need to be sure it is equally well connected to the rafters at both ends (completing  the triangle mentioned above). I also am not sure the 6 x 6 on the sides supporting the rafters.  It looks marginal as a beam or header.  Also, every treated 6 x 6 I ever saw was sopping wet form being treated and had the pith of the tree in it making it very likely to twist and crack when it dries.  Might want to check with the local building official to see if a permit was pulled and inspections were made and passed.  Short of that might want to get a Home Inspector or Engineer to review the porch.

Re: About painting/sealing/spraying

Jason,

Can you point Mike(us) towards a specific product?

I posted the same question back in 2017 when I was in the midst of my project and got similar responses but no specific product recommendations. I made my own decision after reading and talking to the PPG factory rep. My results were not bad but far from perfect.

Luckily I did not post pics and get my construction re-engineered...:-)

Log Home finish's

I had a log home when I lived in WA state.  I refinished the entire outside with the finishes from this company.  They have more products now, but this is the way I am leaning.  Permachinck

Thanks  

Re: Log Home finish's

Nissus Corp makes BoraCare and other treatments for log homes.  Might give them a call for help.