Half blind waste removal revisited and a fitting tp
Let us begin with a disclaimer that describes the difference between "reporting" and "advocating". I am just reporting on what I have done. I don't care how others spend their time. I find over sawing this joint, that will not show, saves me a lot of time. From its common use in Period Furniture it seems it saved others time too.
It is helpful to realize that I have 13 feet of this waste to be rid of.
Normally I route out half blind pin board waste with the board flat on the bench. This orientation results in routing end grain, not so favorable, and chiseling end grain at the base line, highly favorable, especially if the board's grain is not straight. Routing this much end grain was slow and hard on the bit.
Traditional chopping proved satisfying in the short term. It progressed well for four feet until my chopping shoulder seized. Not in shape for this much mallet swinging and I lack an apprentice.
A Forestner bit removes chips way faster than chiseling. I free hand drilled to some short of the required depth. With this material gone it was an easy chiseling job to remove the waste released by these holes. Left was a shallow amount of waste that was quickly removed by the router set to the depth of the board thickness.
The remains, shown, were then pared away with a chisel.
And now a tip........It is essential that there not be any hump in the bottom of the socket (end grain surface). A way to find humps is to run a square down this surface and look for burnish. A burnish, simulated by the pencil rub, on the outside edge of this surface ensures the tail board will seat to a tight joint at this intersection.
