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Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

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Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

#1

Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The situation. Putting a deck on a brige some feet off the ground, enough feet that OSHA has say in safety.

Originally the thought was to install ties and runners, then posts and enough rail to be OSHA compliant for rail, then deck and finally remaining rail. Hand carrying parts across up to 273 feet of bridge while walking on just runners with air beneath was slow. On the smaller bridges another option became possible. Install safety cable across the bridge on each side to provide a harness attachment point. Install ties and runners. Install deck. Now with a deck in place the posts and hardware and rail lumber can be carted to the point of installation. There is a secure work surface (the deck) to work off from. Things went times faster with this approach.

In the past the crew who had never installed hardwood floor proceeded as follows. A few feet of deck boards were laid down with #16 nails added as spacer between the boards. Then cleats were screwed to the runners. Wedges were driven in by the cleats to wedge the deck boards together. Chalk the screw lines and screw this section in place. Pull up spacer nails. Repeat. Slooooow!

Inspired by acres of hardwood floor installation we now lay deck as follows:

The most recent pack of deck boards ranged from 8'1/8" to 8'3/4". Clearly they must be cut to a uniform length. We have been installing both curbs and then cutting deck boards individually to fit between. There is a better way we will implement on future bridges (some suggestions are slow to take :) )




Ties provide a fulcrum. Now we lay deck boards until we get near a tie. Spacers consist of 1 x 1 x 1/8" Masonite squares I make by the hundreds, which we leave in place. A pipe is used to lever the boards together. The last board installed is screwed in place. Repeat. About every 12' we chalk the screw lines and screw.

I wish I had a solution to pictures rotating unexpectedly and needing to rotate 180 degrees right to get them to post correctly.

The massive cost savings of posts and rail installation will be covered next.

Re: Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

#2

Re: Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

Barry Irby

Those look like 2 x 6's, Can't see the thickness...If they are wet, I don't bother with the spacers. The boards will shrink and create the cracks. Screws are better than nails, they don't back out and become tripping hazards. Keep the screws back form the edges about an 1" or more to avoid splitting when the boards shrinks. I'm guessing your Masonite spacers will sift out over time and become forest litter. Stagger the screws left to right to avoid splitting the purlin.

Looks good. I wish I had the energy to help you.

Re: Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

#3

spacers

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The spacers ensure what will appear to be a uniform gap. Result is a wider gap that promotes deck drying.

Re: Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

#4

Re: spacers

Barry Irby

I was thinking about that and you are correct.

A problem you don't have is created or aggravated by the radiused edge deck boards. Some women hate wide gaps in decks because their high spike heels will get stuck in them. I'm betting not many show up on the trails wearing spike heals.

Close to fifty years ago I was replacing decks and found the joists rotted from the top down. Water would sit under the decking boards and not dry. If the screws or nails were driven in a nice straight row, the top edge of the joists often split, letting water in. My solution in was to use joists with more treatment, ones rated for ground contact and to apply butyl flashing tape about 3" wide along the top of the joists. The tape shed the water and sealed around the nails or screws and kept the water out. I also alternated the screws so there was only one in each board at each joist. This reduced splitting. Came back later and added a crew here and there to pull down any warped boards. The point to all this is a few months ago I was watching a video on Advanced Building Techniques and they were installing Joist Tape. Apparently you can buy it now. Yet another thing I invented and did not patent or market. You could cover your purlins or sleepers with butyl tape and they will last longer.

Re: Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

#5

Joist tape

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

It is being investigated by others for this kind of decking on a bridge. It is not as clear a benefit as it is on joists that otherwise have good air flow. Our runners are trapped in between the ties and the deck. They will stay wet no matter. We clad the stringers. Going to use CCA treatment for runners on future bridges.

Re: Wringing out bridge cost- deck installation

#6

PS

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

In a future post I will explain why we deck before adding rails. Yet in the picture we are decking and the rails are obviously in place. What's up ?

We received a pack of deck boards that were of poor quality. Most had a bark edge. We returned them and ordered from a new supplier, Culpeper. The lumber we order is treated to a higher level than what is stocked in retail stores. It took a while to get a replacement pack treated, so we finished the bridge except for this 35' hole in the deck. Last week the replacement pack arrived to the waiting crew to screw it down. Fortunately I was on site and noticed blue tags on the ends, not green.


Tags said KD (kiln dried) and UC4A. Wrong lumber. Treatment company loaded the wrong pack onto the truck and local retailer did not catch the error.

The measure of a quality company is how they fix mistakes. Thursday we discovered the error, and Monday a truck was diverted from delivery to somewhere with the replacement pack that arrived on site Tuesday afternoon. Yea!

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