Cordless: Drill vs Drill Driver vs Impact Driver

Drill/Driver

Mike L

The style of the chuck is one difference. A drill driver will have a 1/4 inch hex quick connect. The drill will have a regular chuck.

Most drivers will have a hammer effect while the drill just drills.

If you are going cordless pick a MFG and stay with it. That way all your batteries will work in other tools.

Re: Cordless: Drill vs Drill Driver vs Impact Driv

Steve D, CT

I'll take a stab at it.

A drill is like a cordless version of a corded drill.

A drill/driver has an adjustable clutch that will limit the torque into the screw. That clutch can be set into either drill mode or driver mode. Some have hammer modes now for concrete.

An impact driver is not torque limited and will use impact to drive the screw. The force is controlled somewhat with the speed but not as fine as a drill driver.

I had an older Bosch drill and circular saw that were not Chinese made and I didn't want to toss them so I had the batteries rebuilt with new cells. I thought that was a good idea at the time, especially since I like using the cordless saw to break things down quickly indoors or out.

I then stumbled on a deal for a Milwaukee Fuel weed wacker that I couldn't resist. Came with a charger and huge battery.

Then I grabbed a Makita drill and impact set which are quite nice. Now I have 3 cordless systems but I'm thinking that opens my options when a new tool gets added. The drill is heavy but will twist my arm off. I grabbed a subcompact Makita for light work and it was pretty cheap ($80).

Next addition was a Milwaukee impact wrench for doing the snow tires. That is awesome. It's the mid-torque model and is pretty light weight.

Then a Milwaukee multi-tool.

So, making a short story long, you can rebuild your batteries if you are attached to the tools you have and they will breathe new life into the tools. New tools have many more options for tools that are compatible with the latest batteries that may make buying new the smarter choice.

Check Home Cheapo for closeouts and deals on their cordless tools. If you can get a piece of lawn equipment like a mower or wacker with 2 batteries then the rest of your tools can be bought as tool only for less money.

The brands I have invested in are better for different things. Makita has a lot of yard equipment and some vacuums. Milwaukee has more automotive and contractor level construction tools.

Once you've spent a grand on tools they will invent a new battery shape, voltage, and/or chemistry to make your day.

Re: Cordless: Drill vs Drill Driver vs Impact Driv *LINK*

Steve D, CT

Milwaukee also has plumbing tools for pex fittings, if you do things like that.

The M12 Fuel are light and pretty high performance.

Also got one of these:


https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lighting-and-electrical/work-and-shop-lights/portable-lights/3926656#ratings-and-reviews

I like impact drivers....

John in NM

But then I do a fair amount of construction. Not something I would really need in the shop I think, but I do use it because I have it. Where those really shine is sinking big screws through 2x lumber without pilot holes and, if you can believe it, hanging drywall. Light touch on the trigger and they just slowly ratchet the screw in to the perfect depth. Too slow for a pro of course, but I like doing it that way.

I prefer Rigid cordless tools, but then I started buying them when they had a lot of cordless tools on offer. Seems like they have retired a large number of offerings, so I would no longer recommend them necessarily. One of my favorites was their jobmaxx multitool - great for cutting electrical box holes in drywall and with the right blade great for hack and slash remodeling work. I bought a metal shear head for it and now and then it is just the ticket.

They still have a warranty that sounds good, and a pretty easy online registration system, but I have never had to try it out so I don't know how they are about honoring it.

I really like the 12" SCMS (plug in) of theirs, but that is a different discussion.

Re: Cordless: Drill vs Drill Driver vs Impact Driv

Barry Irby

Pretty good info above.

A drill rotates the bit. A hammer drill rotates the bit and "hammers" it in at the same time. (Think small rotating jack hammer) Excellent for concrete or stone, not so much for screws. An Impact driver rotates the bit but provides rotating impacts (circular) at the same time. Powerful and impressive at driving screws.

The clutch on newer drills limits the twisting action. I couldn't figure out what anyone wanted with the No. 1 setting. My electrician friend said "We love it! Perfect for installing cover plates." He's right. Also you can turn down the torque for tiny screws, such as the little brass ones in hinges to keep from snapping them off.

Most impact drivers don't have a clutch. The also have the hex chuck. I use mine often in the shop for small work by being delicate with the trigger. Have almost forgotten you can drive screws with the drill. I have the set of the 12 volt Bosch drill and driver. Most times I drill the hole with the drill and drive the screw with the impact driver.

The discussion of the batteries is Important. One piece of current wisdom if to pick a battery platform and stick with it. Probably good advice, but like many I now have three. Give it some thought. I don't think you can go seriously wrong with Makita, Bosch, or Milwaukee.

My son has Milwaukee 18 volt fuel and likes them. I have the Bosch 12 volt drill and driver and like them. Can't remember a case where they weren't powerful enough in the shop. I really don't want a massive battery in the shop. In the yard or on the job site, maybe.

And, I had some batteries rebuilt back in the day. It was OK but I don't think they were "As good as new".

Just to differentiate...

John in NM

Impact from hammer - the hammer drill hits parallel to the axis of rotation, I believe the impact hits 90 degrees to it, basically hammering parallel to rotation rather than it's central axis. I think I remember trying to drive a screw once with a hammer drill, hardly any difference compared to a regular drill.

Re: I like impact drivers....

John K Jordan

>>>... I do a fair amount of construction. Not something I would really need in the shop I think,...

I do a lot of construction too and maintenance around the farm and have two impact drivers. I just grabbed the Hitachi to fasten a coral panel to divide a run-in horse shelter for the new horse.

I do find a lot of use for them in the shop, screws to hang things, putting projects together (I don't do fine furniture!), taking apart things with lots of fasteners, even fastening supports to log sections for bandsawing.

I have cordless and corded drills but almost always reach first for the impact drivers, hate to be without them. If they are too much power for a connection I generally drill holes and use a screwdriver.

JKJ

Question of John and John

Wiley Horne

Have you used one of the hydraulic-drive impact drivers? I recently did the same kind of searching as Don, and finally lit on Milwaukee 18V Fuel Surge impact driver. [Folks, Fuel=brushless motor; Surge=hydraulic drive, battery is prime mover]. Makita makes one similar, ‘oil drive’.

They’re quiet, but will still run 3-1/2” screws into 2x in one go.

Reason for buying: it’s quiet. Plus strong reviews.

Thanks, Wiley

Ridgid warranty.... my experience

Tim Greif - West of Chicago

I had to use the Ridgid warranty for a cordless drill/driver. The chuck just would not hold properly. Fixed just fine under their lifetime warranty. They replaced the entire gearhead. The only hassle was I needed to take it to a factory authorized warranty repair shop which was nearly an hour away. Then go pick it up after the repair was completed. No cost, but not convenient either.

Re: Question of John and John

John K Jordan

>>>Have you used one of the hydraulic-drive impact drivers?

I haven't tried one. I'm pretty happy with what I have but if one goes up in smoke maybe I'll look into the newer technology.

I can' imagine how many thousand screws I've driven, especially with the Hitachi, my favorite. Wonderful for even heavy lag screws and the 6 to 10" long screws for big timbers.

The Hitachi batteries last longer than the Dewalt. I use the Dewalt since I have so many of their tools but I'm getting tired of their batteries dying. I've taken to buying cheaper non-Dewalt replacement batteries from Amazon - a fraction of the cost and they last as long or longer.

JKJ

don't know the difference..

David Weaver

...between drill and drill driver (is the latter such a thing due to having a clutch?).

A friend got me to buy an expensive sioux angle head screwdriver when I first started. I think snapon still makes them - I never liked it. It had a trick head - the drive didn't turn until you pushed down on the head, so you could set it in a screw and then push it down - I guess that kept it from turning if it didn't have good purchase in a head.

I have a hammer drill (electric, older), cordless and air impacts (1/4 and 1/2") and two cordless drills (And then two tiny drill shaped things for guitar work).

Favorite is still just a decent cordless two speed drill with decent speed control and a clutch.

Small impact only for things that benefit from the impact - like tapcons. Not a fan of the noise otherwise.

A small air drill is also nice if you're putting in a lot of small screws at a high speed - they don't seem to turn through a stopped screw (due to lack of motor mass?) with much torque - zip the screw in and stop as soon as it's flush. Working in a cabinet factory in college, we used nothing but air drills like that (all holes were pre-drilled. You could put a screw a second in and not sink or strip any).

On the hand tool side, a brace with the ability to hold hex is nice to finish screws exactly, but you can strip heads with one easily.

Small two speed cordless drill with clutch and good speed control - final answer.

sioux still makes the thing..

David Weaver

....the Z-driver, but I see it only in air tools. It was probably the equivalent of $350 in current dollars. I didn't know any better. In air tools, it's quite a bit more than that.

Lots of imported copies. When I did my kitchen, I bought a ryobi right angle cheapie bare tool at HD (I think it was clearance for $30). I didn't wish I had the sioux back, either.

Re: Question of John and John

Wiley Horne

Thank you very much, John. Very informative.

I’ll report back when this hydraulic-drive impact gets here. From reading a lot of anecdotal accounts, don’t think it has the instantaneous power to drive big lags or 10” screws, so it likely would not do what you expect. The people speaking highly of either the Milwaukee or Makita models are tradesmen doing framing or decking or sheet metal fastening, or anything indoors. Because the tool is quiet, it is neighbor-friendly and client-friendly. Also, the electronics moderate the torque to avoid stripped or snapped screws.

For my purposes, if it’ll run #10 x 3-1/2” into construction lumber without piloting, I’m good. Some report it will handle #10 x 5” or 6” GRK. Anyway, I’ll report back because the tool may be unfamiliar to most of us.

Thanks again, Wiley

Re: Cordless: Drill vs Drill Driver vs Impact Driv

Joe Fleming

I happen to have Dewalt. Now, I focus there to share batteries. The point is to pick a brand and stick to it.

When I went to get my first Lithium Ion battery set, the guy at Rockler talked me into a 12V drill/driver instead of 20V. Best decision I ever made. For what I do around the house and around the shop, the light weight is a huge plus. I have the 12V impact wrench too.

I eventually got a 20V Atomic brushless kit from Dewalt, but I still grab the 12V for most shop work.

BTW - the 20V charging station will charge the 12V batteries.

Now, I have the cordless multi-tool and did not have to buy batteries or charger.

12v versus 18/20v

Wiley Horne

Joe makes a great point. What I find is that, yes there is a weight difference 12 v 18, but there is really a big difference in balance. Here are 2 drills, 12 and 18:

Weight: 3.2lb vs. 2.4lb. Length about the same.

But the 18v feels twice as heavy, due to the larger battery weight away from your grip. Not a deal breaker, but for small things around the house, the 12v excels.

Wiley