Arcane question
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
I want to fasten the original drawing grand daughter gave me for the desk somewhere, and somehow. I'm thinking the bottom of a drawer but then how to stick it there? It is drawn on an 8 1/2" x 11' sheet of paper.
Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Arcane question
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
I want to fasten the original drawing grand daughter gave me for the desk somewhere, and somehow. I'm thinking the bottom of a drawer but then how to stick it there? It is drawn on an 8 1/2" x 11' sheet of paper.
Re: Arcane question
David Weaver
Packing label material- clear stuff. That'll stick it to the bottom and protect it.
Or, laminated and then contact cement.
Re: Arcane question
David Weaver
Or, spray clear shellac and roll it out onto it, then spray clear shellac over it.
Re: Arcane question
William Duffield
I use Super 77 spray adhesive and a J-roller. I like David's idea of protecting it with shellac.
Re: Arcane question
Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)
Bill
Why not have it laminated inside thick, clear plastic. Then use it as a mat on the desk top.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Modpodge *LINK*
Mike L
I would use something like this. My wife uses it all the time in her crafts.
Modpodge
How about hide glue?
John in NM
Just like you're veneering it to the drawer bottom.
Personally I've not had good luck with modern laminating products over the long term. Whatever the glue is it seems to fail after a few years. Perhaps its the climate here.
Re: Arcane question
Yonak
Maybe put it in the drawer covered by a piece of plexiglas cut to the size of the drawer bottom, with a finger cut-out. ..Or, if you want it more hidden, under the drawer bottom held in by a piece of clear plexiglas that can be slid out the same way you'd slide out the drawer bottom.
Re: Arcane question
TomD
Whatever you do, do a trial run with identical paper and wood.
I would get a piece of 1/8"plexiglass and put a few small screws, to hold it to the bottom of the drawer, the way they mount stuff in museums. I assume the drawer bottom has a 1/4"ish clearance to the bottom of the drawer, and if you, you would have space for the plexi and hardware.
Presumably you would counter sink the screw heads, in which case be very careful not to overdrive the screws, as they will split the plexi rather easily.
You might consider signing off the plans, as the builder.
This one.
Re: Arcane question
Dave Bair
Pasted-on paper labels have lasted more than a century on many antiques.
This was my first thought.
Re: Arcane question...digital idea
Tom Dunlap
I like your idea and the shared solutions for archiving the drawings.
In addition to them you might consider a digital archive too. Scan of the plan in the best possible format. take a few pics too. Is there a more forward looking storage medium than a flash drive? Save the info in a way that isn't dependent on some decoder program that goes obsolete in the future
Store all of the digital files on the cloud. Include the address of your archive on the desk. It could be written using ink on the drawer bottom.
I bet that your county/state historical society would be a good source of how to archive the info.
the winner
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
I will mount it under a drawer covered by clear plastic which will be fastened to the drawer bottom in a way to be determined.
Waterborne poly: under and over
Re: the winner
TomD
The winner sounds like your desk!
Lamiation failure? Plexiglas?
John K Jordan
>>>Personally I've not had good luck with modern laminating products over the long term. Whatever the glue is it seems to fail after a few years. Perhaps its the climate here.
Are you using the clear adhesive-backed laminating sheets or the thermal laminating sheets?
I haven't been happy with the adhesive sheets but the other has worked well. I seal in oversized "pouches" then trim to leave a border at least 1/8" around the three edges that are heat bonded.
I've carried small things (like my tax exemption certificate) in my wallet for years with no visible problems and have laminated dozens of letter-sized sheets that are like new after a decade. I use an inexpensive Scotch laminating machine.
Of course our climate is significantly more humid than yours, if that makes a difference.
As for the drawing under a plastic sheet in the bottom of the drawer, the only concern I have is in the event someone bumped a cup of coffee into the open drawer and it seeped under the plastic. Of course, this is unlikely, but hey. Thermal laminating plus plastic cover should protect against this, as would cutting the plastic sheet to fit the drawer bottom and sealing around the edges. Glass could be classier than plexiglas.
JKJ
installation on bottom
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
Installation will be on the drawer bottom and I am warming up to the idea of laminating and stapling the package to the drawer bottom
Re: Lamiation failure? Plexiglas?
John in NM
Yes, I meant the non-heat type. They are better than clear packing tape, but not as good as heat laminations. I have had those fail too, but rarely (probably due to not being hot enough to properly fuse the sheets together).
Climate here kills modern adhesives and elastomers. Rubber bands, pencil erasers, tape.... they all dry out and crack. I would not expect the same problem with thermo-laminates.