WoodCentral Forums

Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge

Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

Posts

Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#1

Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

howard gorman

I am doing a lot of handcarving on cedar posts for a special order. Since carving into the posts exposes a lot of end grain I need a durable finish to not only protect the post but close up some of this end grain. What I've thought of so far is a marine varnish, the type used on boats, and some type of thinned down two part epoxy that can be brushed on. Furniture finishes I've got down, but outdoor finishes is another story. I'd appreciate suggestions and if you have a particular product in mind could you tell me where to get it. I know the marine varnishes are expensive but for this particular order the cost will be folded in. Thanks

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#2

Talk To

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

Total Boat epoxy.

Their penetrating epoxy may be just what you want./need. Use it straight from the mix bowl or thin it up to 50% DNA to penetrate even further. Once you get the wood "filled" I'd go with a good spar varnish

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#3

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

I have had good life from Marine Varnish where "spar varnish" failed in short order. The problem is marine varnish is dark brown. Looks like walnut stain, for better or worse.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#4

Epoxy chemistry

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

The typical epoxy does not withstand sun exposure. Consider it a primer or sealer that must be overcoated with some kind of UV blocker. If you are going to overcoat with a UV blocker you have to ask why use epoxy in the first place. Just use the marine varnish.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#5

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

TomD

One problem with epoxy following on what Bill said is that when it fails, it will be very nearly impossible to fix. Certain marine varnishes are not much better.

I am not completely clear what you problem is. Are you trying to even out the surface condition between endgrain and adjacent surfaces. Surface condition would probably be some kind of filler.

I use a lot of epoxy for boats, but I also use it occasionally on furniture. If you apply it to end grain it will soak in deeply, and the thing about that is that if you wipe off all the surface accumulation, you have a lot of it back in the endgrain that will never see the light of day. I sometimes apply epoxy over table ends where it looks exactly like other finishes, but will work towards order as effectively as a breadboard joint.

Most of the Marine makers produce A UV resistant epoxy. I don't use them, in a marine environment only paint makes sense, though some paints are so thin, you might actually need UV epoxy under them. So I don't have any useful data on those.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#6

Why

Mark Mandell - Gone Round In New Jersey

The thin epoxy will penetrate far more deeply than the varnish to keep the wood stable. Then the varnish, as a UV blocker, protects the epoxy surface from being degraded.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#7

Clint Searl

A couple ways to consider

Clint Searl

First, finish completely as if there was no open end grain. Then, fill the end grain with either clear acrylic modeling paste or melted canning wax.

There's always clear silicone caulk to think about, also.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#8

Re: A couple ways to consider

walta

Maybe I am wrong but it seems unlikely the Cedar log is fully dry generally one year of drying for each inch of diameter. If the cedar is still wet any coating is doomed to fail in less than 2 years.

Remember anything over 6 inches thick will crack open as it dries and the rain will get under the finish.

Not knowing the look you want I would avoid the film surface finishes and reapply an oil finish every 6 months. This will take half an hour twice a year. When a varnish/epoxy fails and flakes off that sounds like 60 or 80 hours of stripping sanding and reapplying.

Walta

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#9

Re: A couple ways to consider

John K Jordan

>>>Not knowing the look you want I would avoid the film surface finishes and reapply an oil finish every 6 months.

I've used a lot of Eastern Red Cedar and other species here for outdoor things for the farm. I always apply boiled linseed oil, and reapply occasionally. It does darken the wood.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#10

Indeed oil will darken

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Linseed oil is a favorite food for black staining mold. Slather it up with oil in a warm moist climate and it will be black in no time.

I am mystified as to the need to "fill" the end grain. The marine varnish recommended will seal the end grain with the first coat. After one coat the next coat will build on the first with no further penetration of varnish or water.

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

#11

Re: Coating for Carved Cedar Posts

Pete in Holland MI

There generally is no finish that you can put on exterior wood and keep it looking great forever. All you can do is choose a finish that protects, and can be maintained relatively easy.

Might consider a finish designed for log homes. They are designed to seal and and have UF protectors, and best of all, can recoat with and they self bond.

Good luck !

👍 This page answered my questions

Your vote helps other woodworkers quickly find the answers and techniques that actually work in the shop.