So where is all the woodworking

Where indeed?

Here's some

Henry (Raleigh NC)

Project for a client that took me waay too long.

- Finishing was a bit of a struggle; the LED install (under each shelf) and the making of the ladder was not nearly as easy as I expected.

- 9' ceilings and 11' wide. Had to modify the existing wainscotting on both sides to have it 'work'. Left existing 11' crown in place behind this, as it was installed 'behind' both pieces it intersected with; removal of that piece meant disturbing 3 pieces on 3 walls instead of just one piece on the backwall.

- Maple face frames, installed in place (not a one piece frame)

- 5 piece Shaker doors (maple + ply) with domino tenon joinery. This portion is about the only part that went according plan without (many) glitches.

- Finish is Target Coatings acrylic pigmented 'lacquer' custom tinted to the white in the room already (very close to a pure white). Color and sheen match was excellent - as I can't tell which piece was coated with which coating.

Pretty happy with the end result, as are the clients.

Henry

thank you!!

David Weaver

I have some of the target lacquer and have almost forgotten about it. I cannot convince my wife to put it on utility furniture in the house (shelving, etc, not nearly as nice as yours) so have painted those with "diamond hard" paint, but it doesn't wear that well.

that looks great, really great.

Re: thank you!!

Henry (Raleigh NC)

Hey David - thanks. No close-up pics to show the faults, but the overall impression is one that meets the goal.

I can't speak to wear properties of the Target pigmented lacquer, as this has just been installed. I can say that I have liked the performance of most Target products that I haver used to date. The pigmented lacquer does have enamel paint properties, like SW ProClassic, compared to the soft and sticky wall paints which as you likely know is trouble for horizontal pieces that have anything placed on them (books stuck in place).

Henry

big fan of pro classic..

David Weaver

..the diamond hard paint was left over from some refurb projects (including some desks that had side panels of hard laminate - that paint guaranteed it would stick, which is the kind of guarantee that's not worth much if it doesn't work - the remedy of getting money back is a fraction of the nuisance, but it's done well so far).

I've spready the waterbase clear (em6000?) with crosslinker and have always been impressed with its hardness when sanding with the crosslink.

The diamond stuff may be harder or less hard than the pro classic, not sure, but do know it dries faster and doesn't lay out as nice. If the pigmented target is close to as hard as the clear with crosslink, it'll be much harder than the paints.

Haven't used the cross linker

Henry (Raleigh NC)

I haven't used the cross linker..yet.

I'm not saying the Target pigmented 'lacquer' surface is hard - just not soft like typical paints. I was able to sand it 'reasonably' well - no cross linker involved though.

Henry

big difference...

David Weaver

The cross linker makes the finish much harder to sand.

I have sprayed guitars with it and cabinets, with and without cross linker (the lacquer that stew mac sells seems a lot like EM6000 or 6600, whatever it is, without cross linker, and target suggests spraying guitars without it because it'll take tending without chipping better or something along those lines).

Or maybe that recommendation was for the S-M, at any rate, they both seem very similar to me.

Haven't seen any data on how much harder the finish is, and maybe it may not be that great to be that hard for trim, but it definitely makes it hard.

No.  Wife says...

Joe in a Cleveland suburb

there is work that needs to be done around the house before I start another project.

Today I got about half way done cleaning and putting my awnings up on the house. Tomorrow I'll do the upstairs.

Then the back of my garage needs to be replaced.

Then its roof needs to be removed and replaced.

Then I need to start on the upstairs bath re-do.

Then....

how do you make a ladder

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

In contemplating how to make a ladder I see lots of problems to solve but I don't know the solutions.

Re: how do you make a ladder

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

Bill, you didn't specify what type of ladder you are questioning! Several years ago I read an article regarding the Rung style ladders used by Fire departments. The article was written about a new Chief that thought the prices from the current supplier were way too high. So he found an alternate supplier. When the ladders came in all the firemen refused to use them.

Ended up the high cost rung style extension ladders used selected straight grain material for the sides and rungs that were skived from clear wood then turned to dimension. The "cheap" ladders were just sawn and turned. The tests proved that method was too weak to support a fireman and gear when a rescue required a fireman to carry a person down the ladder. I did a search for the terminology used to describe ladder parts etc. and found a lot of information.

One page I found describes a lot of different styles.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=rung+ladder+terminology&tbm=isch&chips=q:step+ladder+parts,g_1:wooden:45F_8QeJm7c%3D&usg=AI4_-kSLz_IalA7XS9zWAnwTRt4H_J4bLw&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj26Jrh_6rwAhUqCTQIHff6CAQQgIoDKAB6BAgaEAw&biw=1232&bih=584

clarifying,  how did Henry make a ladder     

Re: my first ladder

Henry (Raleigh NC)

Well Bill the way to make a ladder is one step at a time, haha (and you follow the instructions...)

In this case I was purchasing hardware (the wheels, brackets, and ladder rail and rail mounting hardware). You can purchase complete kits, including both the wood side-rails (if that's the term) and treads; shipping these long side rails makes no sense since these are wood side-rails and I can deal with finding appropriate side rails (7/8" thick was called for I believe). CSH (a WC advertiser) ladder hardware kits have instructions on sizes of wood treads, the angles to dado the side-rails, and how to glue and screw the treads.

In this case I used Rockler black metal treads (client request), which are screwed into the 'rails' using barrel bolts; there is a male threaded screw with large washer head on the inside, and a barrel nut inserted from the outside. The holes of course need to be sized and placed carefully (good instructions available on Rockler's site).

I created a drilling template to locate these holes at the desired locations, and using a hand drill made both sides simultaneously (to maintain consistent errors if there were any). The challenge to this barrel bolt system is that the barrel bolts are a snug fit (appropriately) and any deviance of the hole from true perpendicular to the face of the side-rail makes assembly a challenge (DAHIKT).

Ladder Lessons Learned?

If I were to do this again I would use a thicker than 3/4" template to better ensure 'hole perpendicularity.' In the end this came together well, but a few bolts were a challenge to drive home. Using a drill press might help, but in my case I suspect that might have been worse because I don't have 8' of clearance on either side of my drill press or stand to support long pieces (these were 9+' feet long and holes spanned a 7+' length). So achieving perpendicular holes would have meant supporting the piece and checking level for every hole.

For a paint grade ladder, these metal treads were a top-notch choice, and I think created the visual contrast needed in what would have been a rather monolithic white piece (at least empty, it will of course have books and display pieces on the shelves). I use ladders a fair bit, and this one was as good as any commercial ladder I have used (except for the disconcerting slight L-R movement that can occur because it is on wheels!); this is also not a particularly long ladder. Metal treads were not cheap - approx $45-50 each I think... but check your vendor for real numbers. I used clear, straight grained hard maple for the sides. Also this is more a visual than a practical ladder, but it is very safe (my impression at least; and I am particular about ladders, as I am the one climbing them).

Hope that helps...

Henry

Re: So where is all the woodworking *link to pic*

Michael Bulatowicz

I recently finished a "lazy Susan" bookshelf for my two young children.

Done with all hand tools from red oak, finished in shellac. Heavy and sturdy (and easy to touch up the finish) because I am not naive enough to think it won't be abused and climbed. I figure it's best to make sure it's very difficult to knock over.

Took about 3 months to make, starting from rough lumber, in my very limited shop time and with my kids "helping" from time to time. No fasteners except what was needed to attach the bearing (from Lee Valley). I enjoy the process and the skill building more than the finished product, so I rarely rush and use machines only when I am in a hurry and don't have my kids around. They love being involved in building things, and were involved in this project as much as they could be.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9UD9TqQtVdLGmx4j9