Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Measurement confusion...
Barry Irby
I know there have been lawsuits over advertising 2 x 4's that are actually sold 1 1/2 by 3 1/2". And I thought I knew what 4/4 was.
Now I am hearing sawyer's on line saying we saw 4/4 at 1 1/8" and other saying we saw out 8/4 slabs at 9/4.
Isn't 4/4 supposed to be four quarters of an inch or 1"? I thought you sawed 4/4 so it would dress to 3/4" and maybe a little thicker if you were lucky.
clarification
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
Depending on the accuracy of your mill 4/4 might be sawed more or less over 1" to ensure the lumber would meet specification after drying and shrinking. Band sawed lumber and gang sawed lumber would often be right at 1" after drying. These mills are usually more accurate than a circle mill. Lumber off a circle mill might run 1/16 over 1" after drying. Thicker lumber shrinks more so it is proportionally sawed thicker to ensure it meets target after drying and shrinking.
Re: Measurement confusion...
Ralph Lipeles
4x4 is 3 1/2" by 3 1/2"
4 quarters is your basic 1"thick board that is actually 3/4". 1" boards in antique furniture used to be 7/8" thick. They were rough sawn to 1" and then planed, both sides, to 7/8". When I was a youngster, the thickness was 13/16". Now your basic 1" board is 3/4"
Re: Measurement confusion...
walta
The thought was at one time the wood was green and full of water and milled to full size after it had dried it is now smaller who should pay for the missing volume?
Then it was surfaced and made even smaller again who should pay for the missing volume? The trees we harvest today grow faster and shrink and twist more. The mills are not going to buy more board feet of wood than they sell. So the size of the finished product gets smaller.
This is a business and in the end the customers pay all the costs and more or we lock the doors and go home.
Walt
more clarification
Bill Tindall, E.Tn.
4/4 is a specification established by the National Hardwood Lumber Association. It means the lumber is at least 1" before drying, at least 15/16" after drying, and exactly 13/16 if dry and surfaced two sides, S2S. If lumber is bought according to NHLA grading rules S2S lumber will be 13/16". Hardwood lumber that is S2S to 3/4" is some specification other than NHLA graded lumber. It is likely some retail grade negotiated between retailer and supplier.
Re: Measurement confusion...
Buck
Totally confusion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Measure or caliper every thing, where something is
suppose to fit or be careful & don't worry about how
thick or thin. WITH the Democratic price INCREASE FOR
wood, SHORTLY, most of us wont be doing wood working,
unless we take something, that's been discarded, take it apart
and REUSE that old wood.
Just thoughts of an old plow boy.
Buck Nall
Re: Measurement confusion...
Dave Bair
No politics here, sir.
Re: Measurement confusion...
Frank House
My experience (UK, hobbyist) is that actual dimensions are typically less than nominal, for reasons pointed out by others in this correspondence.
I suggest that just as important as actual dimensions (which one should always check) is what you can get out of a piece of timber.
Is it curved, dished, twisted, cupped etc.? A true 1"x1" piece may not serve your purpose if you need it to be straight for a couple of feet after finishing, and still to required dimensions.
Frank
Re: Measurement confusion...
John Jardin
Thank you Buck.
Totally agree