Shop Humidity

In NC we use DE-humidifiers...

Re: Shop Humidity

Dave Bair

Ultrasonic humidifiers also leave a fine coating on everything within 10' if you use water with even small amounts of minerals.

Re: Shop Humidity

walta

What is your target humidity and temp?

How tightly do you want control the humidity and temperature?

What is your current reading?

Seems like you would need to humidify in the winter and dehumidify in the summer.

Walta

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

Target humidity is 40% temp is 76deg.

I can't afford to have wild swings in humidity (or temp as it affects RH).

Currently the shop is below 20%

Dehumidifying isn't an issue at all. During the monsoon, the humidity outside can swing wildly upward. But the shop is well insulated and air conditioned. I've never seen the hygrometer go much over 40%

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

I can live with mineral dust. I'm mainly concerned with rusting the cast iron with the ultrasonic.

Re: In NC we use DE-humidifiers...

Steve in Phoenix

A DE-humidifier?? No need here (fortunately)!

Re: Shop Humidity

Larry Clinton At Frankfort, (Central) Indiana

Steve, don't know what type of heat (furnace?) you use but the addition of an automatic humidifier (if you have a forced air furnace and AC) is a logical option. Dependent on the hardness (mineral content) of your water source they do a good job of controlling the humidity - if mineral content is high however they do require regular maintenance and filter replacement.

If you want a stand alone unit I would opt for a regular humidifier vs an ultrasonic. I have installed many of the automatic furnace type, and used the portable humidifiers personally. I think the conventional type with a fan & wet filter are better in controlling the level in a large area such as a shop due to more air circulation and they require less maintenance.

Re: Shop Humidity

Barry Irby

As a Home Inspector for many years I came to view humidifiers as mold factories. Also saw many that were abandoned in place and lots of rusted out ducts and furnaces. Can't imagine that one in a shop would not pick up wood dust and start culturing mold. You are right to be careful.

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

Thanks Larry. I have a window AC, and a King Electric heater in a corner up by the ceiling, with the thermostat about 4' off the floor. It's just one big room, so circulation is good. Yes, the water is very hard so I will have to keep up on the maintenance. Not to mention the large amount of hand-sanding required with any guitar building. Lots of really fine dust.

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

Thanks Barry. People can definitely be lax about whole-house humidifier maintenance. And I am concerned about the dust/mold issue. I will just have to keep up with the maintenance. I'll buy a spare wick right off the bat, and always have a clean one ready, while the other soaks in vinegar to dissolve all the minerals from this super-hard water of ours!

Re: Shop Humidity

kneale brownson

When we lived in the mountains in Colorado and Utah, my wife needed humidifiers to keep her yarns moving through her knitting machines. We found the AirCare Mini Consoles to work fine. Their fans blow air over the water reservoir and through a surrounding filter. No misting, no droplets, just more moist air. We left them in the Utah house when she demanded we return to Michigan.

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

Thanks, I'm looking at Aircare right now. If I can work out a little float valve in the tank, I can have it auto-fill!

Re: Shop Humidity

kneale brownson

You will change filters frequently with your mineral content. Filters just get crusty and reduce air flow. I found BestAir filters #H75 from FiltersFast.com to be the best deal for those AirCare Minis. We kept half gallon milk jugs of water next to them for easy refilling. I'd be leary of "auto"fill. Makes you forget to check filters.

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

Thanks again. Maintenance won't be a problem either way. Having worked in machine shops, it's just part of the workday for me.

Re: Shop Humidity

walta

Sorry I until I read your response I did understand you are in Phoenix.

I think the first thing is to keep what humidity you have or make in the shop. Just as heat moves from hot to cold or more to less moisture will move from more to less it is important to seal every air leak possible. I locate air leaks by putting a fan in a window or door and seal the fan into the frame with blue tape. The fan should blow air out of the shop. Safety note turn off all fuel burning appliances furnaces water heaters stoves ECT. Hold a burning incense sticks near every crack and joint the air leaks will disturb the smoke. Caulk the leaks and fix the weather stripping on the doors and windows.

I can’t image a table top humidifier doing much in Phoenix.

Could you turn off the AC and get by using a swamp cooler more or less a giant humidifier?

Consider repurposing a swamp cooler as a humidifier. Instead of feeding outside air into the swamp cooler feed it shop air and send the air back to the shop.

Understand all air conditioners work by removing moisture from the cold air so the cooler your shop is the dried it will be.

Walta

Re: Shop Humidity

Steve in Phoenix

Thanks. Well I did pick up an Aircare Space Saver 836000HB today. And its 91deg outside, with a RH of 6%. So far, with the shop A/C set for 76deg, after 7 hours the shop RH is 40% plus. So the humidifier is pumping out moisture faster than the AC can remove it.

I considered a swamp cooler. But those only cool under certain conditions, and even with optimal maintenance you'll cool down the air by 20dg. Good when its 85deg out, but not 115-120.

I'm just relieved that I can get it to 40%! Now I know I can move to the next steps on reconfiguring the shop for acoustic builds!