Finishing question

Re: Finishing question

Pete in Holland MI

Look into Ebonizing wood with steel wool and vinegar "stain". I've experimented with that on oak and it's a pretty cool effect. Lots of Youtube videos on it.

Re: Finishing question

Curt Putnam

If I had the problem, I would tint some de-waxed shellac (sanding sealer). If you cut the shellac to about a 1 # cut, you can apply multiple coats of the tinted shellac, thus sneaking up on the precise shade desired. The poly will stick nicely.

even stain color

David Yoho

Generally Minwax stains are a blend of pigment and dye and also an ingredient that seals it when dry, making it hard to change or darken it later. On a wood like red oak the pigment lodges in the open pores creating a darker color than on the hard areas. I've never liked the way a pigment stain looks on red oak.

I don't see a need for a sanding sealer. However, if it were me, I'd choose either a dye that dissolves is alcohol or water and sneak up on your desired tone with multiple applications. A dye will give you a more even color on red oak. Either type of dye will raise the grain some so it will need some light sanding to knock down the fuzzy feel. Then you can topcoat with your choice of finish.

How to stain uniformly

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Is a sanding sealer, as recommended by Minwax, really necessary? no, I use a thinned coat of whatever I am going to varnish with for the top coat. For a urethane varnish the sealer would be thinned 1 part thinner to 3 parts varnish.

If anything is needed besides sanding, No sand to 180 done

is there a better way to ensure an even stain color? Better than what?

I stain most everything I make with pigment stain.

Most would be satisfied with the uniformity of this Minwax stain on red oak. Uniform stain on oak is simply the result of perfect sanding. Begin with 100 or 120 and however you start finish with hand sanding on the starting grit. In good light look for any places that are duller than the most of it, or other defects that need fixing. Dull places are a sign of torn grain that is catching sanding dust. If dust is captured so will stain particles. Shiny reveals planer burnish that is not removed. Scratches will also catch dust and reveal themselves.

Continue hand sanding up to 180. When you achieve perfect sanding perfect staining will follow.

For staining, wad up a golf ball sized piece of cotton material like a tee shirt. Then wrap this ball up in a 2nd piece and tie off at the top. This will be the rubber that you use to apply the stain. While rubbing squeeze stain out of the rubber to apply it to the wood. Follow the rubbing on with rubbing the slight excess off with a tee shirt material. Used this way little stain is wasted and it is just less a mess than brushing on gobs of stain then wiping most of it back off.

Re: Finishing question

Don Stephan

Whichever method you choose, hopefully you have some leftover wood to try your finishing schedule on - sanding, coloring, top coating.