Frame and Panel case back

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

My thoughts are:

The stiles and rails will be 1-1/4" wide and 1/2" thick.

Probably too narrow. What I do. I cut a stile the width I am guessing is ok and hold it on the case. 1/4" makes a world of visual difference. I'll bet for a case this big you will want 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 stiles. Center dividers are more narrow. For a back stiles and rails can be the same.

panels that will be machined to fit into the 1/4" groove and be flush with the rails and stiles. 1/4" deep, if so too shallow. 1/4" thick, that is what I do successfully.

Probably 3 with room to expand. 3 what?

The two stiles will run all the way to the floor. Should they have the same angle as the case side feet? Don't know what the feet look like. I usually do an ogee shape for Period furniture.

This panel will be glued and nailed into the case I would not glue. Not necessary and just seems a bad idea.

Do the rails need a longer tenon yes I would be using 1/2" long tenon. BTW, a Domino makes making back panels a breeze.

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Cameron

I assume I'm confused here but reading your comment it sounds like you are making 1/2" thick R&Ss and going to RABBIT in a panel? 2 concerns/questions:

1) are you using rabbits or dadoes? I'm struggling to see how this would work with rabbits...

2) 1/2" thick stock with a 1/4" tenon on the panel: if you are in fact using dadoes to hold the panels this will only leave you with 1/8" bearing material on the R&Ss which is too thin...

If you are somehow using rabbits (bradding in the panels maybe and just leaving the gaps exposed to the rear?) why not just use a solid panel and apply 1/4" R&S to the surface?

disagree

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

if you are in fact using dadoes to hold the panels this will only leave you with 1/8" bearing material on the R&Ss which is too thin...

I panel the backs of all my case goods. 1/8" beveled panels, 1/4" dado, 1/2" stile and rails. Why do you think this arrangement is inadequate?

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Wiley Horne

“ I assume I'm confused here but reading your comment it sounds like you are making 1/2" thick R&Ss and going to RABBIT in a panel? 2 concerns/questions:”

The rabbet is in the case, to take the frame. As I understand it, the panels will be housed in 1/4” deep and wide grooves in the rails and stiles (as planned, at least).

Wiley

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Joe in a Cleveland suburb

Maybe these pictures will explain better what I am planning to do.

I made a quick (and sloppy) mock up last night to see what it would look like. I decided 2-1/4" wide rails and stiles would look better than 1-1/4".

I decided 3/8" tenon and groove would be better than 1/4"

The panel will be made of three pieces ship lapped. Or maybe just two with a center stile. ?

Considering this will be nailed to the back of the case, I won't glue it as Bill suggested. I think it should be fine.

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Don't like that idea

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Ship lab the whole of the back like almost everyone in the universe would do. It will look better and be vastly easier to execute. 3/8" ship lapped back would have been the best choice had this choice been made in the beginning. Could have been resawed from 4/4.

The source of your plans is legendary for what I will charitably describe as novel approaches to building stuff.

I always screw frame and panel backs to case pieces. If the piece survives generations a back easily removed will aid refinishing and repair. But don't do a frame and panel back on a show through book case.

Stop by and I will sell you a piece from the 1/4" piece of cherry plywood used as a source of back material for the shelves above the granddaughters desk.

Re: Don't like that idea

Wiley Horne

I understand he intends to shiplap the whole back—the short piece is just to give the idea (I think?). Agree with you on screws—can use trim head also, which aren’t much more noticeable than nails.

Wiley

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Joe, I built a back similar to your plan for the cabinets below ...

The construction method was with hand tools, but the dimensions were similar: 1/2” rebate, screwed on.

The frame is mortice-and-tenon, and the joinery was done here with a hand planes and a mortice chisel. If I was planning on power tools, a router table or freehand router would be my choice ...

Why build such solid backs? Because the cabinets (campaign chests) may be used as room dividers or alongside a couch in the middle if a room.

The details of the construction is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/TheCompletedChests.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Frame and panel fine for a back that is only viewed from the back. I think it is going to look strange viewed through the front of the book case.

Re: Don't like that idea

Joe in a Cleveland suburb

"Stop by and I will sell you a piece from the 1/4" piece of cherry plywood "

I'll leave now. Should be there by 4:00 am.

Keeps the lights on.

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Derek Cohen (in Perth, Australia)

Bill, if there are books in the bookcase, would one see the back?

I'm looking at a floor-to-ceiling bookcase I building across one wall, and I do not register the backs anyway.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Re: Frame and Panel case back

Christopher Fitch Memphis

Perhaps a timely blog post from Lost Art Press:

https://blog.lostartpress.com/2021/03/09/types-of-cabinet-backs/