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Attaching Legs to Log Table

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Attaching Legs to Log Table

#1

Attaching Legs to Log Table

Lee Ohmart

Some of you may recall I posted here about drying out a pine log to use it to make a pair of cribbage tables. It ended up drying nicely with ends sealed by applying a combination of bees wax and turpentine. Only a few cracks appeared and they were relatively small. Unfortunately, blue stain appeared and an application of wood bleach did nothing to fix that. I've come to accept it as part of the project by recalling the advice I was given at the School for Furniture Craftsmanship, "It's only a defect if you say it's a defect." Now I'm attaching legs. After calculating the angles, I mad a jig to hold an electric hand drill fitted with a Forstner bit on an extension. That resulted in 4 inch holes with nice flat bottoms. I was considering two different methods of attaching the oak dowel legs. The first idea was to use a fox joint and two-part epoxy. Reading about the joint in my Modern Joinery book I find that executing this is a little tricky. The other option was to cut grooves in the end of the leg captured in the hole and again use two-part epoxy. I'm leaning towards to grooving method but open to other ideas.

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#2

being rid of blue mold

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Chlorine bleach straight out of the bottle will bleach it. But it may affect the wood color too.

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#3

Re: being rid of blue mold

Lee Ohmart

That's exactly what happened.

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#4

Ellis Walentine

Tell us...

Ellis Walentine

... the diameter of the 4" (deep?) holes, the dimensions of your log and the legs, and what a "fox joint" means to you. If everything is dry and the joints fit tightly, you can use any wood glue. Certainly epoxy would be fine, too.

If you're talking about a fox-wedged mortise and tenon joint, that shouldn't be too difficult, and it would probably be sufficient with or without glue.

Ellis Walentine, Host

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#5

Re: Tell us...

Lee Ohmart

The joint I was contemplating is indeed the fox wedged joint. The holes are 1 &1/2 inch in diameter to match the oak dowels I'm using for the legs. I had to sand down the dowels to fit in the holes which are about 4 inches deep. Thus the fit is good but not a perfect fit which is why I gravitated towards the two-part epoxy to fill in the imperfections. Never having done a fox wedged joint, I wanted to try it out as I anticipate using this joinery when I build new cedar porch furniture for the family camp.

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#6

Re: Tell us...

Pete in Holland MI

The wedge joints will expand the dowel to fit the hole, so long as it is relatively close. Make sure the wedge is 90 degrees to the grain, and the wedge is a wood harder than the dowels, so they wedge, and don't compress. You still want to glue the dowel as it enters the bench, then wedge it while still wet.

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#7

Re: Tell us...

walta

I do not recall the original post but if you want tight strong joints truly dry wood is essential for most joints. General to air dry wood you need to allow one year for each inch of thickness so if your log is 6 inches thick it will still be moving, shrinking and cracking for years.

You seem determined to make something of this log that being the case you need a plan that can accommodate movement over time.

I think a 3 legged project would be best as it will always find a way to set without rocking no matter how the log twists or moves.

If the legs fit into round tapered mortise when the wood dries the round mortise will become oval and crush the leg or push it out but the weight of the log would keep the leg tight.

http://chairnotes.blogspot.com/2009/02/making-tapered-reamer-to-suit-your.html

Walta

Re: Attaching Legs to Log Table

#8

I made one of those reamers....

Barry Irby

Worked a treat.

Lee, if I understand, you want to use a ( 1/2?) log as a bench and 1 1/2" dowels for legs. (?)

You need to learn some chair making techniques. You could ream the holes to a taper and then taper the end of the dowels/legs to fit but not seat them all the way. That way over time the legs will seat deeper and deeper and remain tight. Second, traditionally the ends of the Legs and rungs are cooked dry, shrunken and then installed in a socket that is in wood that is somewhat wetter. As the wetter wood dries and shrinks and the tenon acquires moisture and swells, the joint becomes tighter and tighter and stays that way.

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