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Case drawer lay out

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Case drawer lay out

#1

Case drawer lay out

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Everyone needs a place to store their socks. With that fact in mind, it is surprising that we see so few case pieces being built on this forum. I have had a steady diet of them the past few years, providing sock storage for daughters and granddaughters.

Maybe we don't see many because they are not easy to build and for a beginner to get right. Over the course of building various chest of drawers I have found ways of making the outcome more reliable (described below) or faster (to be posted on hand tool forum).

The biggest challenge in a case piece is to wind up with the drawers in one plane(that would be geometric plane). I use a fool proof method.

I clamp the two case sides together face to face as they will be oriented in the case. If they don't mate perfectly I know one or both are out of square and/or size and adjust until perfect.

I size a rank of drawers by a technique common in period furniture. The drawers increase in size by one drawer blade thickness, top to bottom. This approach leads to attractive, functionally sized drawers. It also leads to a trivial way of laying out the rank of drawers. Set one divider to the thickness of the blade and a second the height of the top smallest drawer. Now every drawer height is some combination of these two dividers.

With the sides clamped together one just starts at the top of the case marking the top blade with a prick from the divider leg in the front edge of the clamped together sides. Next the height of the first drawer is located by the other divider, followed by a prick to locate the next blade. The next drawer height is the height of the first plus a blade height. This height is located on the front edge as the sum of the two divider settings. Etc. down the edge until all the drawers are located by pricks of the dividers legs. Stick a sharp pencil in each hole made by the divider point, slide a small square against the pencil and draw a line across the case front edges to mark the location of blades and their corresponding drawers. Foolproof!

At this point the location of the drawers and blades are shown by pencil lines on the font faces of the case sides. These lines need to be transferred to the interior of the case sides to locate mortises or dovetails for the blades. And these locations need to be reliably transferred to the back of the case for the same purpose.


Lay the two sides on the bench with the back of the case side edges together and the inside of the case sides up as shown in the picture. With a straight edge connect the blade locations on the inside of the case sides, front and back, and mark. Done and there is no opportunity for an error to creep into this layout.

Re: Case drawer lay out

#2

Re: Case drawer lay out

Henry (Raleigh NC)

Thanks Bill. Your method makes good sense and I can (likely) even remember that without needing to search WC for this post!

Do you decide the overall height of the piece first, then pick the drawer height to work? Or pick that drawer height first and adjust overall height to work?

I expect the first option, but then how do you work out 'extra' or 'insufficient' space at the bottom (if drawer layout doesn't match up evenly)?

Or if adjusting drawer height, what do you consider the minimal height for a functioning sock drawer?

Henry

Re: Case drawer lay out

#3

Answers

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Oh wow those are difficult questions to write answers to. Both, depending.

The message to take way. Dividers are a wonderful way to lay things out, be it dovetails for a drawer, or a case, as examples.

So for the desk pedestal. It had to be 29" high(about), 4 drawers if 4 worked out ok.

Inputs: 29" height, 4 drawers, 2" molding at bottom, drawer blades 3/4", drawer height increment 3/4"

Equation 1: 29" minus (the sum of molding, plus sum of all the blades)

equaled 22 1/2", the sum of the height of the 4 drawers.

Equation 2 where X is height of smallest drawer:

X + (X+3/4) + (X + 6/4) + (X + 9/4) = 22 1/2 x = 4 1/2"

The beauty of this method is several fold. If X turned out to be impractical height it would be immediately apparent and the must of 4 drawers in the design specification would have to be altered. Well, 4 1/2 is ok so that is what it will be.

In another case if the height had come out some whacko fraction like 3- 29/54" just set the divider to something close, walk the dividers down the edge and see if there is an error. Adjust the span of the drawer height divider until the error becomes insignificant. If the last drawer is suppose to be 6 3/4 and the divider comes up a bit short or long an option is to just make the drawer whatever it winds up. Nobody will see an 1/8" "error" in the height of a 7" drawer.

If there was an error in some calculation it would be immediately obvious when the dividers were walked down the edge of the case side. (I encountered this situation in this case)

I never strive to get any dimension exact unless it becomes a must. In the current case, by the time I got the two sides exactly the same to one another they wound up slightly longer than 29" . I had an option. I could throw this error into the height of the base molding or I could increase the drawer height divider larger by 1/4 of this extra length, a trivial adjustment to make by eye on the divider. This is the advantage of using a divider.

Re: Case drawer lay out

#4

The other answer

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

My son in law gave me a drawer size for the main drawer of a large 7 drawer dresser he wanted made This dresser was a pain in the ass to build this way. Normally I like to design from the case size and let the drawers be what they wind up. Small errors and irregularities just get accommodated in drawer sizes one winds up with. Starting with a drawer and building out, errors and irregularities wind up in molding sizes where they can not be tolerated. I had to be way more careful on this piece.

I don't make a part till I need it. Then I size this part from what I have in hand. Things always fit this way but few parts are exactly some nice increment of size. 12 3/4 may be in fact 12 .837"

Re: Case drawer lay out

#5

Thanks Bill

Henry (Raleigh NC)

Thanks, the mechanics of layout are important, but do follow after the decision process (of for example the overall height of the piece). You have explained well. Thanks for writing it out!

Henry

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