Questions on ratios for double pedestal table

Re: Questions on ratios for double pedestal table

Clint Searl

The rule I have always used is to position the pedestals so that when someone is pulled up to the table, their knees don't bump into them.

Re: Questions on ratios for double pedestal table

William Duffield

If you are designing furniture to fit humans and rooms, this reference book is a good place to start:

Human Dimension & Interior Space: A Source Book of Design Reference Standards, by Martin Zelnik and Julius Panero.

https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?sts=t&cm_sp=SearchF-_-home-_-Results&an=&tn=Human+Dimension+and+Interior+Space+%3A+A+Source+Book+of+Design+Reference+Standards&kn=&isbn=

Re: Questions on ratios for double pedestal table

Don Stephan

If the original table was sufficiently stable, measure how far the pedestal was from the midpoint of the octagon sides, and position the pair of pedestals similarly. In essence, the distance between the two pedestals is the increased length of the new table top. But this assumes the bases that contact the floor are essentially the same, relative to the "drip line" of the two table tops.

Re: Questions on ratios for double pedestal table

Craig Smith

Nice idea! Thanks.

Re: Questions on ratios for double pedestal table

Henry (Raleigh NC)

We have such a table (commercially made), and the leg sets are a T on each end rather than a full crossed t (i.e. no leg pointing towards the middle on either pedestal; 3 legs on each pedestal, not 4).

Henry

A suggestion

Ellis Walentine

An octagon is not an elongated shape; it's a circle with eight points -- not conducive to two support pedestals. One pedestal will easily do the trick if it is engineered adequately. I once made an octagonal poker table for a well-heeled gentleman in Maryland. It had one pedestal and was solid as a rock.

When designing a table like this, you need to make the footprint of the base in the right relationship to the diameter of the table, so that it doesn't stick out any farther than it needs to (and get in the way of diners' feet). This relationship depends on the expected use and a safety factor. Let's say you are making a 5'-wide octagon, the base footprint would probably be in the neighborhood of 3', but if you anticipated heavier demands, you could increase that.

The simplest way to make such a base would be to make a foot assembly and a top beam assembly, which would be essentially the same right-angle "X" shape. Instead of a single post in the middle, which wouldn't stand up to downward forces at the perimeter of the table very well, design the base with vertical members mortised into the top and bottom assemblies, one on each leg.

Elis

Re: A suggestion

Craig in NJ

Thanks for these insights. I have plenty to think about while I start sketching out ideas.

Re: A suggestion

William Duffield

To be an octagon, the shape does not need to be regular. You are describing a regular octagon. Instead, you can, for example, lay out the octagon on an ellipse. In that case, just make the lengths of the individual legs proportional to the distance from the center to the perimeter at their positions, or even set the ends of the legs at a fixed distance from the perimeter of the top.