Est. 1998 — 27 years of woodworking knowledge
Herringbone veneer questions.
Lee
I am building a cabinet with a herringbone pattern on the doors. Thisbwill be sprayed white. I have milled up Ash to 3/32” thick. What are your thoughts on using Contact cement as an adhesive?
Core of the door is 5/8 MDF.
So 3/32” ash veneer on one side and back side also veneered. For a total thickness of 13/16”
I do not have a vacuum press, and was looking for an alternative to clamping.
Thoughts??
Lee
Re: Herringbone veneer questions.
Lee
Pieces of veneer are 2 1/4” w x 7 1/2” L
Epoxy
Re: Herringbone veneer questions. *LINK*
Dick Coers
I'd never use contact cement for anything other than Formica. Use a caul system for clamping in wood glue.
http://benreddanfinalpiece.blogspot.com/2013/04/construction-of-veneer-substrate-press.html
Re: Herringbone veneer questions.
CJ in MPLS
Shop-made veneers like this can be laid up directly on the mdf using hide glue and clampled flat using plywood covered in wax paper.
Alternatively, lay up each individual piece on kraft paper with the show side down. When you have laid them all up, clamp between two pieces of plywood covered in wax paper. When cured, scrape away any glue squeeze out so the surface is flat and then glue to the mdf using your wax paper covered plywood some more hide glue. Have I mentioned that hide glue is kind of fun to use? The kraft paper can be scraped away and the surface planed or scraped (or sanded) to achieve flat and smooth.
You will want to veneer the backside of your mdf panel to prevent warpage.
I have to ask
AZ in Colorado Springs
Why does the back of the mdf panel require veneering? Without a grain system, I'd think the mdf is not subject to warping from changes in moisture content. (I'd agree that it needs to be protected from moisture, but couldn't that be achieved with something other than veneer?)
Is there a fear that the veneer could pull the mdf out of flat? But they're individual pieces, so they'll move in different directions. Even so, wouldn't putting the same finish on the top and the unveneered bottom side of the mdf sufficiently regulate changes in moisture content?
I'm not trying to be a contrarian; just want to understand the relevant variables.
Re: I have to ask
Dick Coers
The first issue will be all the moisture added to one side from the adhesive. MDF is not inert, it moves with seasonal change. Not as much as hardwood of course, but it does move.