1/4" Blade in a Laguna 16HD Bandsaw ?

Cutting curves?

Jim Matthews

If you're cutting curves, a sacrificial guide might be useful.

The larger guides overlap gullet and might dull teeth under heavy "twist".

Re: Cutting curves?

John Foster

So how do you make a sacrificial guide? I can imagine that you remove the existing ceramic guide holders with some drilled hardwood blocks fairly tight to the blade and spin by hand until it runs smooth.

Re: Cutting curves?

Ellis Walentine

My old pal Mark Duginske came up with a product called Cool Blocks, which were made of a stiff, graphite-impregnated material that would support even the narrowest blades. I'm betting somebody sells them, though I haven't checked lately.

Ellis

Re: Cutting curves?

William Duffield

The last time I looked, Woodcraft carried them. I think they are now made by Carter. They look like they are made from canvas Micarta, but I'm not sure about that.

When I had a bandsaw that used guide blocks, I replaced them metal ones with lignum vitae blocks the same size and shape as the originals. There was no need to replace the block holders. All my bandsaws now use ball bearing guides. My small bandsaw, which I use for cutting curves, now is equipped with a Carter Stabilizer, which consists of one ball bearing with a groove that supports the back of the blade from above the table, and no guides whatsoever below the table.

The problem with stock guide blocks is if they are adjusted improperly, the blade can be pushed back far enough that the blocks squash the set out of the band's teeth. This doesn't happen with lignum vitae blocks, because the blade cuts its own kerf in the blcoks.

If set too tight (side to side), frictional heating can expand the metal blocks enough to pinch the blade between them and actually bring the saw to a stop. This also heats the blade enough to anneal the teeth, and then they get dull in a hurry. DAMHIKT.