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Laminate Question

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Laminate Question

#1

Laminate Question

Doug Reynolds

I know when veneering one should veneer both sides of the substrate/panel but, what about applying "plastic laminate" to just one side with contact cement? Can it be done without worry that it will significantly warp or cup?

I am making two chuck boxes (camping kitchens) out of Baltic birch plywood 1/2" thick. The front panel folds down and becomes a work space. I would like to laminate it instead of just applying finish.

Thanks in advance for your suggestions, Doug

Re: Laminate Question

#2

Re: Laminate Question

Dick Coers

IF you do something to the back side like two coats of polyurethane or two coats of paint, you can get by with laminate on one side. They make a backer laminate that is just craft paper and no color that is cheaper than the laminate. But if laminate is only applied to one side of the particleboard, the other side will absorb humidity at a much different rate than the laminate side. Cheap kitchen countertops are made with laminate on one side, but you have 34" of plywood cabinet box fastened to the bottom to limit cupping.

Re: Laminate Question

#3

I did a test with Baltic birch

Steve Elliott

The standard advice to use a backer is generally a good idea.

That said, about 25 years ago I made a shop jig using 1/2" Baltic birch and only laminated one side. It was also a test to see how much the jig would cup. That jig is still nice and flat.

I think the many layers of waterproof adhesive in the Baltic birch may be acting like a layer of laminate would to prevent moisture absorption.

If you camp in rainy weather your project may be subjected to more moisture than my jig experienced in cabinet shops.

Re: Laminate Question

#4

Re: Laminate Question

Barry Irby

I agree with Dick. On quality plywood like Baltic Birch coat the other side with poly or something similar and you should be good.

On the subject of kitchen counter tops... I have made a number of things out of the cutouts from the sink. I have several shop cabinets where I glued rails on the back side for drawers to slid on and then have been fine for many years. and I made an extension wing for my TS by gluing two of them back to back. They had huge bellies in them. Coated them with Titebond and clamped them around the edges, pulling them flat. Works fine. One is serving as my router table.

Re: Laminate Question

#5

Re: Laminate Question

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

Kitchen counter tops have been laminated one side since this stuff was invented. Given the proposed use I would suggest painting or varnishing the other side. A coat of either greatly slows moisture transport.

Re: Laminate Question

#6

Re: Laminate Question

Sgian Dubh

That's interesting, Bill. I'm assuming you're referring to the commercially available ones, commonly post-formed with a rounded front edge, and sometimes an inbuilt upstand at the rear, although that isn't the only pattern. Some, for example are square edged at the front with no upstand at the rear.

The type I described above when purchased here in the UK are laminated on both faces, the back face being a brown backing laminate.

I wonder if the manufacture of such countertops is different than is normal here (Europe/UK) in the USA, and possibly the rest of North America, i.e., the bottom surface is normally left bare? Slainte.

Re: Laminate Question

#7

Formica

Bill Tindall, E.Tn.

1970 kitchen

Install 3/4 plywood on counter top. Slather on contact cement. Add formic and trim to shape.

Re: Laminate Question

#8

One side will be fine IMO

Tim Greif - West of Chicago

I made a self supported counter over the front load washer and dryer years ago. I used a sheet of maple plywood and laminate that matched our then kitchen countertops, edged with oak to match the kitchen edge profiles. I only used laminate on one side and left the underside unfinished. There is no support under this counter except at the back and side edges. The top was fastened to the wall with french cleats at two sides and the remaining side simply sits on a piece fastened to an adjacent counter. The front edge is unsupported over the washer and dryer and had never sagged, even with considerable weight as it's used for a work table and a sorting table. Dead flat since 2005. I used maple plywood because it was flatter and more stable than anything else Menards had and the french cleats were used to allow easy removal for servicing the appliances. This thing goes through plentry of humidity changes and has never warped or sagged.

I think your laminated camp table will be just fine with one side formica and the back side with a slop coat of poly or paint, for ease of cleanup. I know how these camp kitchens work. I used to be the adult quartermaster for our local boy scout troop.


Re: Laminate Question

#9

Re: Relevance?

Sgian Dubh

Bill, I can't see how your response answers the question I asked? Can you please expand on that? Slainte.

Re: Laminate Question

#10

Re: Laminate Question

Mark Nowicki

I have demolished and installed hundreds of kitchen counters over the past 35 years (Quebec) and have never encountered laminate on the bottom, or seen a warped one.

👍 This page answered my questions